rutberg
J justusandersson said:
I forgot to point out that if you place a pillar in the middle under the beam/beams, you can reduce the size to 90x180 mm.
An exciting update! I'm doing some other renovations where the wall finish has now been removed. What is there today seems to be two 170 beams and three 70 posts.

The span is quite long, 6300 mm, and I wonder if a steel beam might be an option to reduce the height and perhaps avoid the middle post when the wall is eventually taken down? That is, CC1100 on the trusses, low-slope flat roof, 6300 mm span.
 
If you want a steel beam instead of glulam with dimensions 90X315, then HEA160 is comparable. This applies regardless of the span. The disadvantages of steel are the price, the weight, the need for fire protection insulation, and that it is harder to fasten (cannot nail into it).
 
rutberg
Ahaaa, so an HEA 160 would handle the entire span without a pillar? Is it preferable to an HEB? Or can one reduce the dimension on HEB?
 
A HEB160 is stiffer than a HEA 160, but a HEB140 is on the lower end. Note that I have only answered the question of what can replace glulam 90x315. I don't quite remember which span we calculated earlier.
 
rutberg
J justusandersson said:
A HEB160 is stiffer than a HEA160, but a HEB140 is borderline. Note that I have only answered the question of what you can replace glulam 90x315 with. I don't quite remember what span we calculated before.
6300 will probably be the total span. But is that perhaps a bit too much without a post?
 
The problem for me is that I no longer have any notes from the previous calculation. If my answer then was a 6.3 m long glulam beam with the dimension 90x315, then my answer now is that it works with an equally long HEA160. However, the latter weighs 192 kg compared to the glulam beam's approximately 90 kg.
 
rutberg
Aah, I understand. No, last time it was probably 5275 mm that I looked at, to possibly keep a part of the wall that's there now.
 
rutberg
I'm wondering if I should take on the task of contacting a structural engineer. Because if I understand everything correctly, the wall is likely not originally built to be load-bearing. But if I want this confirmed, I should contact an engineer to have it certified? However, since the calculations for snow loads have changed, it seems that the wall has become load-bearing. I assume that the current function of the wall is being calculated.

It seems like it will cost quite a bit, and become significantly more expensive if this turns out to be the case; also in terms of time, since a building notification would have to be filed. Now I'm really itching to go ahead "while I'm at it," something that seems to be a common urge one quickly gets as a homeowner.

Can anyone send a tip on a structural engineer who can be hired for the calculation, seeing that there have been similar threads with tips but they always end with direct messages?
 
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