2,124 views ·
30 replies
2k views
30 replies
Rounded wood screw 4.0x20 mm does not fasten in untreated panel 22 mm.
One option could be to use screws and nuts to attach the pulleys to the panel. Drill a little into the plaster to make room for the nut so that the panel lies flush against the ceiling.
In any case, the panels must be attached to wood material, plaster will never withstand the forces that arise when wet laundry is winched up and hangs on the frame/ropes.
In any case, the panels must be attached to wood material, plaster will never withstand the forces that arise when wet laundry is winched up and hangs on the frame/ropes.
I have a flat ceiling, so is it called a ceiling joist then? Anyway, I should then try drilling at 30 cm from the wall into the battens and hope there's a joist behind? And then there should be another joist at 90 cm from the wall? That is cc 60?H Hybro said:Panel? Is it a single panel board?
And how have you attached it to the plasterboard?
I think some pictures would be helpful.
So. You need to find out what there is to properly screw into upwards.
Ideally, it's like roof trusses or some kind of cast ceiling if it's an apartment.
The plasterboard is screwed onto battens attached to these.
The battens can't handle carrying any heavy loads.
I was planning to attach the panel to wooden material. But the pulleys themselves will only be on the panel where there is drywall behind. Isn't it better to use some kind of expanding drywall anchor? That is, the screw goes first through the panel and then into the drywall anchor?E etompau said:An alternative might be to use screws and nuts to attach the pulleys to the panel. Drill out a bit in the drywall to make room for the nut so that the panel lies flush against the ceiling.
Anyway, the panels must be attached to wooden material, drywall will never withstand the forces that arise when wet laundry is winched up and hangs in the frame or lines.
Alternatively, I might go with your suggestion. But then I would use machine screws with a countersunk head. Then I don't need to drill holes in the drywall.
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If you have ceiling studs with a 600mm center spacing, I suggest choosing longer wood than 1100 mm if you intend to mount it across the existing wood, at least 1200mm long so you can attach to two studs.K kia2 said:
Personally, I would choose something thicker than 22mm to make it more stable. My suggestion is that you choose 45*70*1250mm long pieces and mount them on the board across the framework that supports the plaster.
1100 mm goes over two beams. 1200 would go over three beams. Or am I misunderstanding you?F fribygg said:If you have beams in the ceiling with a 600mm center distance, I suggest you choose longer timber than 1100 mm if you intend to mount it across the existing timber, at least 1200mm long so you can fasten it to two beams.
Personally, I would choose something thicker than 22mm to make it more stable, my suggestion is that you choose 45*70*1250mm long pieces and mount them on the plate across the framework that supports the drywall.
Thank you for the help!
Can I (in addition to attaching the panel to the studs) also attach it to the drywall? That is, where the pulleys are, I screw through the panel and up into the drywall, perhaps with expanding drywall anchors? Or is that a bad idea? The advantage would then be that the pulleys are secured really well AND the panel gets additional attachment points.
Can I (in addition to attaching the panel to the studs) also attach it to the drywall? That is, where the pulleys are, I screw through the panel and up into the drywall, perhaps with expanding drywall anchors? Or is that a bad idea? The advantage would then be that the pulleys are secured really well AND the panel gets additional attachment points.
What you call a "panel" looks like a regular chipboard with white laminate (i.e., the kind used to build shelves, wardrobes, or cabinets). What is the material, a regular shelf board? It usually doesn't hold very well when screwed in with regular wood screws (check the kitchen cabinet hinges, for example, or the shelf boards in a wardrobe, which are more like smooth pegs held up by the volume in the hole rather than threads).
Panel boards are made of solid wood, which might be possible to screw into.
I think you might be able to attach your chipboard to the ceiling against the joists, but it's more doubtful to affix wood screws that should withstand tensile load in the board?
Panel boards are made of solid wood, which might be possible to screw into.
I think you might be able to attach your chipboard to the ceiling against the joists, but it's more doubtful to affix wood screws that should withstand tensile load in the board?
This is the one I bought:Spikbjörn said:
What you call "panel" looks like a regular chipboard with white laminate (i.e., the kind used for building shelves, wardrobes, or cabinets). What kind of material is it, ordinary shelf board?
It usually doesn't hold well for screwing with regular wood screws (check kitchen cabinet hinges, for example, or shelf boards in a wardrobe that are more like smooth pegs supporting with volume in the hole than threads).
Panel boards are made of solid wood and can probably be screwed into.
I think you can mount your chipboard to the ceiling against the joists, but it's more questionable to attach wood screws that should withstand tensile load in the board?
22X195 EXTERIOR PANEL Rough-sawn spruce
https://www.byggmax.se/22x195-ytterpanel-p08021195
Should be possible to screw into, right?
Regarding tensile load, I'm considering screwing through both the board and the drywall using expanding drywall anchors. Could that work?
It should be perfectly possible to screw in. However, the board is quite thin and to be able to bear the load of a drying rack, you probably need something thicker. If you hang wet laundry, you risk the screw that is only 16mm in the board coming loose and the rack and laundry falling down.K kia2 said:
Thanks. That's why I'm considering whether I can screw through both the board and the gypsum. Gypsum usually withstands quite a lot of load if you use expanding gypsum plugs. That's my experience, although I've only hung heavy items on the wall...F fribygg said:
Even though the plaster doesn't add much to hold the screw, it will be much better with a fully threaded screw that goes through the entire board than the ones you have chosen now.K kia2 said:
