I have torn down the knee wall now the whole house is thumping

[Hybro]

Apparently, they managed well without computers when calculating load-bearing roof structures even 70 years ago.

 

[Hybro]

Now it seems to have become a gigantic rat trap

Very glad that you have now become observant of the dangers in time.

 

[star_daddy]

If you can read, there is plenty of information available online, such as Träguiden and others. Roof trusses are now standardized, and the necessary dimensions and timber qualities according to strict building regulations can be found, and renovations sometimes require a building permit from the municipality. When the new Eurocode came, the amount of standardized snow load that should be included in the calculation data had also increased.

If you can talk to your municipality's building department, give it a try, but you probably won't get away without a rough calculation, which can be simple or more difficult depending on the original carpenter's "freedom" when the house was newly built.

 

[Fridhems]

Load-bearing structure that is now vulnerable.
Install a glulam beam with solid anchoring on both sides.
Alternatively, restore the knee wall to its original state.

 

[Gmalmis]

A thought, shouldn't the support legs be inside the wall that remains in the room?
Isn't it usually possible to see the junction where the upper frame and lower frame meet in a knee wall?

Right?
As I understand it, the knee wall remains, and it's some interior wall that's been torn down if it was at the green line?

 

[Dowser4711]

Note that this is the same user who a few weeks ago created the thread with "fjällpanel" in the shower and then went silent while the thread continued.

So either the TS has extreme problems with their house or the TS is an unusually skillful troll.

 

[star_daddy]

Load-bearing construction that is now vulnerable.
Install a glulam beam with sturdy fastening on both sides.
Alternatively, restore the attic space to its original state.

A longitudinal beam that supports the outer frames? And what will support them, all loads from dead weights, standardized snow load, standardized room load, and other point loads must somehow be transferred down to the foundation.

 

[Petterzon]

two completely different types of trusses, you have a Swedish truss while TS has a Frame truss.

regarding oversized constructions, you have to go back to the 1910s (in some places 1920s) and earlier, like the whole 1800s. That's when material thicknesses were quite generously used.

Checked my drawing now and the braces were actually drawn on the plan, I have also moved out my voids.
They are not exactly small beams either.

Yes, if TS doesn't have such braces and has removed the vertical ones, that's not good.
I would probably look into that.

two completely different types of trusses, you have a Swedish truss while TS has a Frame truss.

regarding oversized constructions, you have to go back to the 1910s (in some places 1920s) and earlier, like the whole 1800s. That's when material thicknesses were quite generously used.

 

[Bernt Ö97]

Hi, so here is the house plan, it feels like there's something to it.

Support beams are part of the roof truss construction.
Must be addressed immediately, before the next heavy snowfall. The snow load on your roof can be 20-30 tons or more depending on where you live.

 

[Anna_H]

A tricky advice considering there are different load cases.

For instance, basement walls whose purpose is not to bear vertical loads but to counteract soil pressure. Or in TS's case where the support legs might only receive significant load when there's snow on the roof.

How is it a tricky advice? A standing wooden stud in an attic cannot support a basement wall laterally.

 

[Anna_H]

Is it really true that the section drawing shows load-bearing walls? It's a bit tricky because not all load-bearing walls are always included, and a section drawing can vary depending on where in the house the section is taken! I'm doubtful that this is the case, but I'm not a designer!

In this particular case, there's no doubt with the type of truss, but in general?

In general and in particular, the section drawing shows the load-bearing walls, that is its purpose. If it is different in different parts of the house, there should be several section drawings.

 

[Anna_H]

A thought, shouldn't the support legs be inside the wall that remains in the room?
Don't you usually see how the meeting where the top frame and bottom frame meet in a knee wall?

It is the green line that is the removed wall, it should be where the support legs have been. Not where you drew the red line.

 

[Nissens]

Those drawings only show the walls. Whether they are load-bearing or not, we do not know. So if the stability of the house is affected without knowing what dimensions have been used remains just a guess.
My own very amateurish guess is that the risk of snow load damage is small given the steep slope of the roof.
Ts. can surely make a somewhat qualified guess themselves based on how the removed walls were dimensioned and how they were anchored.

Minnie

If you read up a bit on the construction of roof trusses and then look at ts drawing again, you will have a completely different opinion.

Ts drawing clearly shows that the walls in the attic were a load-bearing part of the construction…

So you should be careful about giving advice if you have no knowledge whatsoever on the subject…

 

[AG A]

Yes, a section drawing shows load-bearing walls. As a structural engineer, I am almost scared by all the "expert advice" from people who have no idea what they are talking about. Words about it not being so dangerous, or if they have done it on their own house. Or even advice about putting in a beam or new supports/columns. Even I, as an engineer, dare not give practical advice. You have to be on-site to see how to solve this. Even if you plan to restore the catwalks. The only sensible advice is to quickly contact a structural engineer and very temporarily and carefully place supports where the wall was. Do not push/press into place, but just set and screw them to the floor and ceiling.

 

[Johnsson 56]

Can't bother to read all the comments, but this is completely wrong. Don't people understand that the brace walls have some significance? First of all, it's mandatory to have a construction permit to demolish load-bearing walls, which this is. Primarily, they hold up the roof where the roof trusses are divided/spliced. Secondly, they are significant for the intermediate floor. It is a type of truss beam, so while it supports the roof, the floor hangs from them.