I have an old brewhouse on the property that is probably built at the same time as the house (1930s).
We are renovating it into a guesthouse and have now reached the floor.
The floor is poured concrete with a floor drain in the middle of the room. There is a significant slope, almost 10 cm from the walls down to the drain, so we need to level it out in some way before laying the floor.
I initially decided to put plastic against the concrete slab, frame up with wood, insulate between the framework with foam plastic, and lay the floor on top. However, I have read a lot about moisture problems and then talked to my neighbor who is a carpenter and got some tips on casting with concrete with Leca balls instead.
Would that work? The room is about 10-15 m2. I made a quick 3D sketch (not to scale), hope it's understandable.
1, This is what the room looks like now. The floor drain is the lowest point, and the floor slopes towards the drain.
2, I plan to level it with a leveling laser so that the floor becomes flat.
3, After that, I prime the old floor and lay out concrete mixed with small Leca balls. To get the floor completely even, I cast against two straight battens (metal or wood).
4, When the concrete is in place, I use a screed board and smooth out the concrete. I remove the battens when the floor starts to set and then fill the grooves.
5, After that, I put foam plastic as insulation, paperboard, flooring chipboard, and then an ordinary laminate floor.
What do you think? Is this better than framing up a "deck" in the space?
We are renovating it into a guesthouse and have now reached the floor.
The floor is poured concrete with a floor drain in the middle of the room. There is a significant slope, almost 10 cm from the walls down to the drain, so we need to level it out in some way before laying the floor.
I initially decided to put plastic against the concrete slab, frame up with wood, insulate between the framework with foam plastic, and lay the floor on top. However, I have read a lot about moisture problems and then talked to my neighbor who is a carpenter and got some tips on casting with concrete with Leca balls instead.
Would that work? The room is about 10-15 m2. I made a quick 3D sketch (not to scale), hope it's understandable.
1, This is what the room looks like now. The floor drain is the lowest point, and the floor slopes towards the drain.
2, I plan to level it with a leveling laser so that the floor becomes flat.
3, After that, I prime the old floor and lay out concrete mixed with small Leca balls. To get the floor completely even, I cast against two straight battens (metal or wood).
4, When the concrete is in place, I use a screed board and smooth out the concrete. I remove the battens when the floor starts to set and then fill the grooves.
5, After that, I put foam plastic as insulation, paperboard, flooring chipboard, and then an ordinary laminate floor.
What do you think? Is this better than framing up a "deck" in the space?
Nivelli was an option, but I got the impression it was very expensive, roughly 10-20k.
Leca balls and concrete don't cost as much. I haven't calculated down to the penny, but it's not in the same class as Nivelli by a long shot.
Could you anchor steel angles to the floor and then screw joists into these to avoid moisture later on? Plastic sheeting against the old floor and then a framework on top? That way, the wooden construction doesn't come into contact with the concrete.
Leca balls and concrete don't cost as much. I haven't calculated down to the penny, but it's not in the same class as Nivelli by a long shot.
Could you anchor steel angles to the floor and then screw joists into these to avoid moisture later on? Plastic sheeting against the old floor and then a framework on top? That way, the wooden construction doesn't come into contact with the concrete.
Elkludde said:
It completely depends on whether there is any moisture migration to speak of... If the existing slab is reasonably well-drained, it should be fine.
Check this before choosing a path - tape a piece of construction plastic to the slab and see if any moisture forms underneath it. However, you should have at least around 15°C in the cabin to get any condensation under the plastic worth mentioning.
If you have access to a laser, you first mark small platforms on the floor at the correct height, then you can use these points to rest the drag board on and drag from point to point. Never under any circumstances cast wood into a floor slab.
I was planning to use wooden battens but then I would remove them before the concrete has set. The alternative is some form of steel batten that can remain in the floor.
The reason I'm considering horizontal battens is to be able to level the floor in the same way as when plastering walls.
I assume it is difficult to get the concrete even without these screeding strips for a beginner?
The reason I'm considering horizontal battens is to be able to level the floor in the same way as when plastering walls.
I assume it is difficult to get the concrete even without these screeding strips for a beginner?
Wendigo said:
Are you mixing the concrete yourself, or are you ordering it?
There are different types of concrete speeds, but I recall there are "full-flow and half-flow"...? Full-flow should be helpful in getting it level? Just speculating now...
