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12 replies
9k views
12 replies
Is foam sealant ok against plastic pipes?
Hi, I have a small problem with a pipe penetration under the sink after renovation. (In an apartment, cigarette smoke and cooking odors are being drawn in through it. I've really "sniffed" and that's where it's coming through the shaft, not through the regular ventilation pipes.) I'd like to seal it but it's hard to reach and I'm considering a construction with, among other things, foam sealant. Is it okay to use foam sealant against drain pipes (gray plastic) and hot/cold water pipes (white plastic outer layer/transparent inner layer)? I'm asking because it would be disastrous if the foam sealant dissolved the plastics.
I'm wondering if it might be better with fire foam. I don't really know what kind of shaft it is.C clippan said:Hi, I have a small problem with a pipe penetration under the sink after renovation. (In an apartment, cigarette smoke and cooking odors are being drawn in through it. I have really "sniffed" and it's coming from there via the shaft, not through the regular ventilation pipes). I would like to seal it but it's difficult to access, and I'm considering a construction with, among other things, foam sealant. Is foam sealant okay for sewage pipes (gray plastic) and hot/cold water pipes (white plastic outer layer/transparent inner layer)? I'm asking because it would be disastrous if the foam sealant were to dissolve the plastics
Thank you for your response. The shaft is the vertical shaft where all the pipes run, between the floors. I looked up fire foam and got the impression that it was similar to regular foam sealant in terms of content. So my question remains whether it's okay to use foam, any type, against these pipes?
sentinel FOGSKUM is indeed a foam recommended for common applications such as sealing around penetrations, e.g., ventilation, plumbing pipes, and electrical cables.
You want a product that is cheap and available in a store near you.
I would say Sika or Essve, but there are cheaper products.
You want a product that is cheap and available in a store near you.
I would say Sika or Essve, but there are cheaper products.
Don't know if there's a difference in residential buildings, but a duct should be sealed between floors. So no odor/smoke should be present there.
But as the previous speaker said, foam sealant is probably not the right product, it is insulating but not sealed.
But as the previous speaker said, foam sealant is probably not the right product, it is insulating but not sealed.
Thank you all for the responses. The origin of it all is a plumbing renovation from 10 years ago. At that time, a new main pipe line was made next to (outside of) the old one that remains in the wall. But to get the pipes into the kitchen, a hole was knocked in the wall (a bit carelessly but that's how it goes with light concrete) and that's where it's not sealed. Not just unsealed, it's a 2.5 dm high and 1.5 dm wide hole, so it's quite a bit larger hole than what the pipes themselves require. I assume it's the same in the apartment above and below, and that's why smoke and odors find their way into this shaft and then get drawn into my apartment. One of the problems is that it's not possible to access the inside of the shaft to get any backing. I've been considering using rock wool or glass wool as well to pack the hole with. Maybe that would be easier. Even if it doesn't become absolutely airtight, it should be better than now because currently, it's quite a large open hole there.
it should have been sealed by those who did the job.C clippan said:Thanks everyone for the responses. The origin of it all is a plumbing renovation from 10 years ago. A new pipeline was installed next to (outside) the old one that remains in the wall. But to get the pipes into the kitchen, a hole was knocked into the wall (a bit sloppily but that's how it gets, aerated concrete) and that's where it is not airtight. Not just not airtight, it's a 2.5 dm high and 1.5 dm wide hole, so it's quite a bit larger hole than what the pipes themselves require. I assume it's the same in the apartment above and below and that's why smoke and fumes find their way into this shaft and then get drawn into my apartment. One of the problems is that it's not possible to access the inside of the shaft to get any backing. I've also considered rock wool or glass wool to pack the hole with. Maybe it would be easier. Even if it wouldn't be absolutely airtight, it should be better than now as it is currently quite a large open hole there.
Pretty sure it should be performed by the company that redid the "stammen" since it is a fire compartment boundary, otherwise it is not done correctly! Fire should not be able to spread through shafts/slits. If it is a condominium, the association should cover the cost and bring in an inspector who has reviewed all penetrations between apartments! Ask the association to contact a construction lawyer; you may have a 10-year warranty depending on what is agreed upon.
Regards, Hellman
Regards, Hellman
exactlyH Hellmans said:Quite sure it should be carried out by the company that rerouted the "stam" as it is a fire cell boundary, otherwise it is not done correctly! Fire should not have the opportunity to further develop through shafts/slits. If it's a condominium, the association should bear the cost and bring in an inspector who has examined this in all penetrations between apartments! Ask the association to contact a construction lawyer, you may have a 10-year warranty depending on what was agreed upon.
Best regards, Hellman
That it drafts through the shaft is a serious matter, it concerns the fire safety of everyone who has any connection to the shaft.
The fire rating between two apartments should be at least EI 60, between an apartment and a common area (e.g. stairwell, shaft) it should be at least EI 30.
Each apartment should be its own fire compartment, the same goes for, among other things, the stairwell, which is why it's not good to have mail slots in the apartment doors.
Feel free to talk first with a few neighbors, check if it drafts at their place, if it does, you can go together, otherwise, you can go to the board by yourself, or maybe even higher up.
I am in charge of nearly 20 fire alarm systems and over 10 extinguishing systems at work.
The fire rating between two apartments should be at least EI 60, between an apartment and a common area (e.g. stairwell, shaft) it should be at least EI 30.
Each apartment should be its own fire compartment, the same goes for, among other things, the stairwell, which is why it's not good to have mail slots in the apartment doors.
Feel free to talk first with a few neighbors, check if it drafts at their place, if it does, you can go together, otherwise, you can go to the board by yourself, or maybe even higher up.
I am in charge of nearly 20 fire alarm systems and over 10 extinguishing systems at work.
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