Intermediate floor

[witten]

I have skimmed the thread a bit, but have you considered that you can place a steel beam over the basement's living room to divide the joist into 2 sections?

You also mention fire protection, do you exceed 200 m2 so that it's needed? If that's the case, I think fire protection plasterboard is better than fire protection paint.

Wooden joists with good sound insulation are built significantly in height, around 400 mm or more, so it becomes difficult to achieve.

As an alternative to glulam, you also have Kerto (laminated veneer). Another option for longer spans in wood is Masonite lightweight elements. But as mentioned, try dividing into more sections with steel beams and load-bearing walls.

 

[Plupp 184001]

I have 4+ m ceiling height so I can easily fit a larger one. I'm actually considering whether to have side beams too, but the only one who benefits from that is probably the building supplier.

But with the column that takes around 13 kN, that force needs to be transferred to a single point on the beam below... Luckily, I can have a continuous wall all the way down at that point, so the problem is solved. However, maybe I should reinforce with glued laminated timber 115*115 on the mid-level as well instead of 45*120 at that specific point.

I revised the calculation to the actual measurements I have... the column is no longer an issue. I was also able to reduce the dimension of the beam but will keep 90*315. For the trusses, I'm considering between 300 or 600... 600 works, so it's better in terms of energy loss.

In reality, the extension will also be joined with the current old part on most of one long side, so there's stability there too. The old house is built sturdily... for example, 2-inch thick outer paneling.

 

[witten]

I've been thinking more about the sound issue. If you're going to rent out the basement, I would probably only consider a concrete slab. It's difficult to get a prefab supplier for such small jobs, so cast-in-place is what's relevant; you can either use traditional formwork and cast 250 mm reinforced concrete or use a permanent metal form (combideck).

 

[Plupp 184001]

I have skimmed through the thread a bit carelessly, but have you considered placing a steel beam over the basement living room to divide the floor structure into 2 sections?

You also mention fire protection, will you exceed 200 m2 so that it's needed? If it is relevant, I think fireproof gypsum is better than fireproof paint.

Wooden floors with good sound insulation require a lot of height, around 400 mm or more, so it will be difficult to achieve.

As an alternative to glulam, you also have Kerto (veneer beam). Another option for longer spans in wood is Masonite Lightweight Elements. But as I said, try to divide into more sections with steel beams and load-bearing walls.

Dividing into two sections would be convenient, but how much does the "joint" build in height over the steel beam? I've only seen a few pictures.

Sound is particularly sensitive for my wife. My father-in-law has a lightweight concrete beam between the garage and the floor above the garage, and it is 200 mm. Very quiet between the floors.. so that would be optimal but only 538 cm. I can't achieve partitioning into two sections in the basement living room any other way than with a "recessed" steel beam and lightweight concrete beam on top of it, or reducing the width of the extension.

 

[Plupp 184001]

I have skimmed through the thread a bit, but have you considered that you can place a steel beam over the basement's living room to divide the floor into 2 sections?

You also mention fire protection, will you exceed 200 m2 so that it's necessary? If it is relevant, I think it's better with fire-resistant gypsum than fire-resistant paint.

Wooden floors with good sound insulation require a lot of height, around 400 mm or more, so it will be difficult to achieve.

As an alternative to glulam, you also have Kerto (veneer beam). Another option for longer spans in wood is Masonite Lättelement. But as mentioned, try to divide into more sections with steel beams and load-bearing walls.

We will have 110 square meters per floor (60 now) x 3 "floors".

 

[witten]

The steel beam can be recessed into the wooden floor structure.

As I mentioned, you only need 250 mm of concrete for a 6 m span. It will then be basically the same as in newly built multi-family houses in terms of sound.

 

[Plupp 184001]

You can embed the steel beam in the wooden joist system.

As I mentioned, you only need 250 mm of concrete for a 6 m span. This will be virtually the same acoustically as in newly built multi-family houses.

The free span is actually 5.5 m since the lecablocks take up 2*25 cm. But it probably doesn't make for a thinner slab. I will talk to Nyströms Cement about their lightweight concrete beams at 5.38 m.

 

[witten]

Thinner plate than what? It is of course possible to optimize the thickness through calculations.

 

[Plupp 184001]

Thinner slab than what? It is possible to optimize the thickness through calculations, of course.

The original problem is that I would prefer to have 180 mm joists in the intermediate floor to get 230 cm in the new part and self-drainage from the new shower to the old laundry room. So that's why