The studs are sufficient. If the house were to move, it doesn't matter what dimension the studs have.
 
If you screw the new studs into the timber, they will be secure.
And with the right boards, it should be stable.

The only thing that worries me is what happens in the angles between the wall and the floor, and in the corners between the walls.
Will it become so rigid that movements in the house frame do not cause any leakage?

Now, I know I'm painting the devil on the wall, but as I said, I have a bit of a phobia for ceramics in wooden houses.
 
What you describe is naturally justified and something that should be taken into account. But if you consider all new constructions where a bathroom is placed on the second floor, shouldn't it be the same thing?
 
Greven1982 said:
What you describe is naturally justified, as well as something to consider in the calculations. But if you imagine all new constructions where a bathroom is placed on the second floor, shouldn't it be the same thing?
You must have the first bathroom on the ground floor, so I don't think it's that common to have bathrooms upstairs. If you want to have tiles on wooden beams, I always recommend casting EPS,
 
I have worked as a tiler for 14 years and have seen many poorly made bathrooms, many in sports cabins built in the 70s.
There are few bathrooms that have had cracked tiles; where it has cracked, it is usually due to dropped items.

Today's waterproofing membranes are very tough regardless of temperature and it is probably the case that a plastic mat is more brittle at +10-12 degrees, which is the standard indoor temperature when it is unoccupied.
A warm mat, on the other hand, is probably much more stretchable than a membrane.
 
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