Hello
I have a house from the late 1800s with a timber frame. I now need to reinforce the floor between levels to renovate a bathroom located on the second floor in a knee wall area. My question to you is how I should solve the reinforcement of the floor, as the old floor beams are spaced at a center-to-center distance of 80 to 90 cm, and the span is about 5.2 m to the load-bearing wall on the ground floor. Additionally, there is a wall that separates the knee wall area from the other room, which, according to my calculations, rests on both the exterior and interior walls on the lower floor as well as on the floor beams. What should I do? The post may seem difficult to read, but I hope to start a thread so I can sort it out as much as possible.
I have a house from the late 1800s with a timber frame. I now need to reinforce the floor between levels to renovate a bathroom located on the second floor in a knee wall area. My question to you is how I should solve the reinforcement of the floor, as the old floor beams are spaced at a center-to-center distance of 80 to 90 cm, and the span is about 5.2 m to the load-bearing wall on the ground floor. Additionally, there is a wall that separates the knee wall area from the other room, which, according to my calculations, rests on both the exterior and interior walls on the lower floor as well as on the floor beams. What should I do? The post may seem difficult to read, but I hope to start a thread so I can sort it out as much as possible.
Anyone who knows or can advise me on this matter
Please, is there no one who can help me...
Is the floor wobbly?
If so, they might want to add new joists between the existing floor beams.
A couple of tips in passing, without having much information.
1. Throw out the bathtub and settle for a shower; this will save you 400 - 500 kilos of load on the joists.
2. Forget about tiles and ceramics. Vinyl flooring is flexible and suits old wood constructions better.
If so, they might want to add new joists between the existing floor beams.
A couple of tips in passing, without having much information.
1. Throw out the bathtub and settle for a shower; this will save you 400 - 500 kilos of load on the joists.
2. Forget about tiles and ceramics. Vinyl flooring is flexible and suits old wood constructions better.
It's been almost two days nowhuggan said:
Hello
Sorry for being so eager, but I'm currently holding the hammer and thinking of driving a nail in about two weeks...
First, I want to thank you for the tips that have come in. Since I'm naturally impatient (as you may have noticed), I called a structural engineer to find out what I should do, so that part is solved. He said I should go down to cc 400-450, and then cross brace everything with a spacing of about 1500mm per row...
This sounds solid when you have glued 22mm chipboard on top, or what do you think?
But now the next question arises after consulting with the tiler, 500kg of leveling compound on the 9 sqm bathroom I plan to build can 8-9 inch joists handle that plus the extra 45*170 beams I'm adding?
Sorry for being so eager, but I'm currently holding the hammer and thinking of driving a nail in about two weeks...
First, I want to thank you for the tips that have come in. Since I'm naturally impatient (as you may have noticed), I called a structural engineer to find out what I should do, so that part is solved. He said I should go down to cc 400-450, and then cross brace everything with a spacing of about 1500mm per row...
This sounds solid when you have glued 22mm chipboard on top, or what do you think?
But now the next question arises after consulting with the tiler, 500kg of leveling compound on the 9 sqm bathroom I plan to build can 8-9 inch joists handle that plus the extra 45*170 beams I'm adding?
500 kg is about 55 kg per square. It should not be a problem.
When you think about it, it's not that much.. Well then, just get started.. Does anyone know if you should have plastic on the warm side of a bathroom or not, have read in säkert vatten and bkr but can't find anything about this..
No plastic as a vapor barrier in the bathroom wall.
You already have a waterproof layer behind the tiles.
But I want to repeat, to the point of annoyance:
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggma...02-mellanbjalklag.html?perpage=15#post2172040
You already have a waterproof layer behind the tiles.
But I want to repeat, to the point of annoyance:
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggma...02-mellanbjalklag.html?perpage=15#post2172040
Understand from you that tiles and ceramics are not something you like in old wooden houses, but as long as you get a floor that is strong and stiff, things shouldn't crack. And as for the walls, they are over 120-30 years old dry timber, so the movements should be less than in a newly built house. I'm not saying that I should have either tiles or ceramics but it's good with input...
I have also lived in a log house, probably from 1820 - 1840. When the wind blew and the storm gusts swept through the village, the house shook so much you almost fell over.
So yes, old log houses probably move quite a bit.
But, well, to each their own belief
So yes, old log houses probably move quite a bit.
But, well, to each their own belief
Yes, I won't claim to know everything or anything like that, but my view on things in life is that if you want something, it should be possible to arrange it in one way or another. But if you're planning to have carpet on the floor and tiles on the walls, how should you build the wall that you tile on? Is 45*45 against the log wall, wedged in places where the timber bulges, enough, and then screw in 15mm plywood + wet plasterboard?
Or should you use different dimensions for the studs to reinforce the whole thing?
Or should you use different dimensions for the studs to reinforce the whole thing?
Someone?