"Should" be a similar procedure as a wooden intermediate floor on Leca.
This is how I did it.
* Leca wall
* Cast reinforced beam
* Sill paper
* Lower sill fastened with nail plugs
* Edge beam of 2 glued 45x220
* Floor joists attached with joist hangers to the edge beam. To avoid bothering about extra beams over window and door openings in the leca wall. (Hence my double edge beam. Think of a lintel/rafter over an opening.)
* Upper sill
A tip: Pull up a strip of the vapor barrier from below before you start with the floor joists. This will save you a couple of days of cutting and gluing around the floor joists.
Tip 2: Check that you really can just add another floor like that. Sole's hold mm mm mm.
This is how I did it.
* Leca wall
* Cast reinforced beam
* Sill paper
* Lower sill fastened with nail plugs
* Edge beam of 2 glued 45x220
* Floor joists attached with joist hangers to the edge beam. To avoid bothering about extra beams over window and door openings in the leca wall. (Hence my double edge beam. Think of a lintel/rafter over an opening.)
* Upper sill
A tip: Pull up a strip of the vapor barrier from below before you start with the floor joists. This will save you a couple of days of cutting and gluing around the floor joists.
Tip 2: Check that you really can just add another floor like that. Sole's hold mm mm mm.
Wooden beams should be anchored into the lightweight concrete using embedded anchor irons, including on the gable sides. This may require you to add an extra layer of masonry. A ring reinforcement between the top and second-to-top layers, as suggested by TotalControl, is also suitable but should ideally already be in place. Solid walls of lightweight concrete as well as lecasten should not have any vapor barrier on the inside.
Lightweight concrete is not a clearly defined product and is available in several variants, including different strength properties. I would not undertake such a project without first consulting a competent structural engineer. Of course, the foundation's capacity must also be checked, as TotalControl points out.
Lightweight concrete is not a clearly defined product and is available in several variants, including different strength properties. I would not undertake such a project without first consulting a competent structural engineer. Of course, the foundation's capacity must also be checked, as TotalControl points out.
If we talk about real stone houses, i.e., those with massive masonry exterior walls, not many are built today. The craftsmanship that a mason had in the past almost doesn't exist today. At least not in Sweden. The walls in a stone house, whether using brick, concrete block, or lightweight concrete, should have a compressive strength that handles the vertical loads that arise, which is probably the least of the problems. Additionally, the masonry must be done so that the construction is stable and can withstand wind loads from the side and not bend out when the load on the roof and upper floor increases. This is mainly done through embedded reinforcing steel and anchors. The dead weight of a masonry wall that is several stories high is quite large, which must be taken into account when designing the foundation.
It's a bit of a shame that we have become so focused on wooden houses in Sweden since a masonry house can achieve a much better indoor climate with, among other things, fewer moisture problems.
It's a bit of a shame that we have become so focused on wooden houses in Sweden since a masonry house can achieve a much better indoor climate with, among other things, fewer moisture problems.