I have a building on the property that I plan to insulate and fix the walls & floors in. So I get a small "Man-cave" to retreat to and work on various technical hobbies :D

The question is just how do I go about it the right way? What's there today is the frame itself and walls in an old style.

Interior of an old wooden building with exposed beams, a leaning wooden door, and a pile of insulation materials on the floor.

The panel is of the lockläktspanel type.

A small red wooden building with a metal roof, white window frames, and a yellow door, set beside a tall evergreen tree, with grass in the foreground.

I guess there was a time it was heated and cleaned.

Old wooden interior with an unused stove in a building to be renovated into a man-cave, showing wooden walls and part of a cracked concrete structure.

The sauna part will be demolished so the entire building will be empty inside. So it will be open up to the ceiling. But I wasn't planning to have it that high, just regular square rooms.

Interior view of a wooden building with exposed beams and an old chimney, planned for renovation into a "man-cave" space.

Wind barrier paper, put up studs, insulate, and apply suitable inner wall material. The question is about the wind barrier paper... Can I attach it directly to the wall panel or does it need spacing?
Then, afterwards between the insulation and the new inner wall.. Plastic or not?

Interior of a wooden structure with old paneling, cluttered tools, and materials, possibly remnants of past construction or renovation efforts.
 
It is always difficult to achieve proper windproofing without stripping the exterior and nailing wind barrier boards underneath the planks. In that case, you could place the wind barrier board directly against the planks between the studs and accept wasting some energy when it’s windy. I would use a wood fiber-based wind barrier board. If the planks are not rotten at the bottom, it's probably best to remove the battens and nail the wind barrier board on the old planks, then apply new siding on top.

If you stick to classic red ochre paint with linseed oil and vitriol, the facade can breathe, and I don't think you need an air gap. All moisture disappears right out through the planks.
 
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