Hello
I am building a tunnel greenhouse where the rafters are made with planed 70x28 lumber.
Due to the thickness, I can't use anchor screws for the fittings at the angles. I was thinking of using pieces of wood in between to make it thicker, but I'm not sure.
Are there any screws that work about as well for fittings as anchor screws, but are shorter?
I am building a tunnel greenhouse where the rafters are made with planed 70x28 lumber.
Due to the thickness, I can't use anchor screws for the fittings at the angles. I was thinking of using pieces of wood in between to make it thicker, but I'm not sure.
Are there any screws that work about as well for fittings as anchor screws, but are shorter?
Member
· Nuevo Estockholmo
· 3 529 posts
28x70 as rafters sounds very flimsy.
If there is a span of a few meters and you secure for twist and side-bend, it might hold.
But I would probably call it a "standing board" instead of a "truss"
Anyway, if the screws go through, it's better to have a piece of board on the backside rather than in between.
But I would probably call it a "standing board" instead of a "truss"
Anyway, if the screws go through, it's better to have a piece of board on the backside rather than in between.
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Through bolt and nut.
E.g. 5x40 + M5 locknut and washer.
E.g. 5x40 + M5 locknut and washer.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
What is special about ankarskruv? I use good screws like SPAX.
Protte
Protte
Protte@
You can use a different screw that grips well in the holes. However, the construction won't be "professionally" done, even if it's just as strong. A deck screw like VSB Turbo works if you drill about 50% more than the prescribed anchor screws. It's available in a 30mm length if TS wants an alternative. Unfortunately, it's not fully threaded.
You can use anchor nails that you trim to the correct length. A variation I might try just because it can be aesthetically interesting is to cold-peen with anchor nails. Pre-drill all holes so that the nail plates are opposite each other with a slightly smaller drill. 4mm, for example. Punch through the anchor nails so that they go through both plates. Have someone hold a sledgehammer on the installation side and pound the anchor nails so they flatten out outside the plate on the other side. Should hold just as well or better than through-bolts. But it'll be much nicer looking.
Best regards, Findus
You can use a different screw that grips well in the holes. However, the construction won't be "professionally" done, even if it's just as strong. A deck screw like VSB Turbo works if you drill about 50% more than the prescribed anchor screws. It's available in a 30mm length if TS wants an alternative. Unfortunately, it's not fully threaded.
You can use anchor nails that you trim to the correct length. A variation I might try just because it can be aesthetically interesting is to cold-peen with anchor nails. Pre-drill all holes so that the nail plates are opposite each other with a slightly smaller drill. 4mm, for example. Punch through the anchor nails so that they go through both plates. Have someone hold a sledgehammer on the installation side and pound the anchor nails so they flatten out outside the plate on the other side. Should hold just as well or better than through-bolts. But it'll be much nicer looking.
Best regards, Findus
But it seems 10 times more complicated.findus42 said:
Haven't tried to rivet anchor nails, does it really work? It depends on the material and hardening.
Me neither . The fact that nothing has been tested has never stopped me. I'll probably have to cut off the tip. If I use the "wrong" disc, it gets warm, potentially ruining any hardening. A few tests and maybe I'll find a way... Or I'll just go and buy rivets instead
Best regards, Findus
. The fact that nothing has been tested has never stopped me. I'll probably have to cut off the tip. If I use the "wrong" disc, it gets warm, potentially ruining any hardening. A few tests and maybe I'll find a way... Or I'll just go and buy rivets instead Best regards, Findus
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Thanks for the answers.
Solved it with small pieces of wood in between, quite simply.
Yes, probably slightly weak wood really, but 45 felt very massive on the other hand. They are 1.3 meters apart, with a "nock" in between on each truss.
Probably completely wrong terms, I really don't know anything. But it will probably be fine anyway, let's hope!
Solved it with small pieces of wood in between, quite simply.
Yes, probably slightly weak wood really, but 45 felt very massive on the other hand. They are 1.3 meters apart, with a "nock" in between on each truss.
Probably completely wrong terms, I really don't know anything. But it will probably be fine anyway, let's hope!
I have a question on the same theme.
I will be replacing the studs for the garage door, as they have started to deteriorate at the bottom. The existing studs are 45x120, and the new ones will be of the same dimension. The studs are about 220 cm high and are attached with the 120-side against the wall. The horizontal one is about 250 cm long. These will be screwed to the wall with facade screws, 10 x 120.
The door itself (which is quite old but still works well) is in turn attached to the stud with angle brackets, about 45x45. The angle brackets are secured with screws, 5X40 from both sides of the angle bracket. When I went to buy new studs and screws, I was advised to use anchor screws to mount the angle bracket to the stud. I have some left from the deck construction, but they feel a bit flimsy. Also, the holes on one side of the angle bracket are countersunk, which otherwise will look ugly with an anchor screw.
So what is really the point of an anchor screw? I realize that the shorter model cannot be longer than 40 mm (since the stud is 45 mm), but is there anything stopping me from instead using a regular wood screw with a countersunk head, say 5x40? And is there anything stopping me from on the other side of the angle bracket (where I have a 120 mm stud to screw into and the screw holes are not countersunk) using a lag screw (or similar screw with a hex head), like 6x90?
Now I should say that the old (in my opinion, flimsy) screws have probably worked for sixty years, but if you're going to redo it, you might as well do it properly.
I will be replacing the studs for the garage door, as they have started to deteriorate at the bottom. The existing studs are 45x120, and the new ones will be of the same dimension. The studs are about 220 cm high and are attached with the 120-side against the wall. The horizontal one is about 250 cm long. These will be screwed to the wall with facade screws, 10 x 120.
The door itself (which is quite old but still works well) is in turn attached to the stud with angle brackets, about 45x45. The angle brackets are secured with screws, 5X40 from both sides of the angle bracket. When I went to buy new studs and screws, I was advised to use anchor screws to mount the angle bracket to the stud. I have some left from the deck construction, but they feel a bit flimsy. Also, the holes on one side of the angle bracket are countersunk, which otherwise will look ugly with an anchor screw.
So what is really the point of an anchor screw? I realize that the shorter model cannot be longer than 40 mm (since the stud is 45 mm), but is there anything stopping me from instead using a regular wood screw with a countersunk head, say 5x40? And is there anything stopping me from on the other side of the angle bracket (where I have a 120 mm stud to screw into and the screw holes are not countersunk) using a lag screw (or similar screw with a hex head), like 6x90?
Now I should say that the old (in my opinion, flimsy) screws have probably worked for sixty years, but if you're going to redo it, you might as well do it properly.
Aha, I can see now that they are quite sturdy just under the skull.
However, another problem has arisen, and that is that a rubber strip runs closely along the angle iron on the side where the holes are countersunk. If I don't use a countersunk screw there, the strip will hit the screw head all the time, but I assume it should hold even though I'm not using an anchor screw right there?!
However, another problem has arisen, and that is that a rubber strip runs closely along the angle iron on the side where the holes are countersunk. If I don't use a countersunk screw there, the strip will hit the screw head all the time, but I assume it should hold even though I'm not using an anchor screw right there?!