Yes, I am not tired of life, but I would like to be able to hang exercise equipment from the ceiling with sturdy hooks that can support my body weight. The house in question is a single-story, and as far as I know, the ceiling consists of plasterboard, sparse paneling, and then wooden roof trusses. Now that part of the house is going to be remodeled, and I would like to take the opportunity to create a ceiling where I can screw in sturdy hooks.
If you screwed through the plasterboard into the roof trusses, it should hold, but the problem is that I might want hooks in places other than directly under a roof truss (they are spaced 120 cm apart). Can wooden beams be installed between the roof trusses, and then fasten tongue and groove boards or plywood sheets from below that hooks can be attached to? Can the sparse paneling even be replaced with wooden boards on part of the ceiling? Would it hold? How thick does the wood need to be for a hook that is loaded straight down with 80 kg?
If you screwed through the plasterboard into the roof trusses, it should hold, but the problem is that I might want hooks in places other than directly under a roof truss (they are spaced 120 cm apart). Can wooden beams be installed between the roof trusses, and then fasten tongue and groove boards or plywood sheets from below that hooks can be attached to? Can the sparse paneling even be replaced with wooden boards on part of the ceiling? Would it hold? How thick does the wood need to be for a hook that is loaded straight down with 80 kg?
It will be necessary to install thick beams between the rafters, which can be attached with joist hangers to hold it. With swing eyes if they fit well and are pre-drilled. Preferably on top to make it strong, but then the fastenings will be long. Otherwise, there can be sway in the roof, regular boards of some kind won't hold, and beams above the furring, then it can sway with 120 C/C on the rafters.
The wood guide has a section but nothing directly suitable for your example. For 110 kg straight down, I interpret that as 25 mm wood being sufficient (double plywood?). https://www.traguiden.se/konstrukti...a-skruvforband-tra-mot-tra/?previousState=100
If I interpret your answers correctly, you should use at least 30 mm of wood to screw into, and preferably it should be placed on top of the rafters (or the cross battens between the rafters).
Hmm, that leaves a lot of air (or insulation) down to the plasterboard in that case. Say you lay 120 mm high cross battens with the bottom edge level with the rafters. In that case, you have batten height (120) plus the thickness of the sparse paneling (34 mm?) from the plasterboard up to the wood you can screw into. That's long hooks...
Hmm, that leaves a lot of air (or insulation) down to the plasterboard in that case. Say you lay 120 mm high cross battens with the bottom edge level with the rafters. In that case, you have batten height (120) plus the thickness of the sparse paneling (34 mm?) from the plasterboard up to the wood you can screw into. That's long hooks...
You can hang a rough rule/plank in joist hangers, there are many different ones, just choose what fits between the rafters flush with the sheathing and measure exactly and note where it is. Then there will be no long fastenings.
Yes, that can certainly be done. The problem is just that I find it a bit difficult to decide right now exactly where the hooks should be placed. It depends a bit on where other things end up in the room when it's finished. That's why I was looking to get a larger area (say 1x2 m) that is screwable.
I understand your problem, having particle boards is not good as they tend to chip on the top side, resulting in only half the board being usable. I can't say if two 22 mm boards on top of each other will hold. Something is needed that can support likely trapezoidal hooks. But be patient, there are more people in the forum who know better and can say what is appropriate. They will surely read here and come up with suggestions.
In that case. As big as a plywood sheet. Place three sheets thick between two rafters. Place against joists mounted with joist hangers 36 mm up between the roof trusses. It holds for anything to hang on.
I would suggest 25 mm construction plywood without extra beams. A 100 kg point load in the middle of the bay results in a deflection of less than 3 mm, which must be considered perfectly OK. Then, of course, the fastening device must handle that load with a 25 mm depth.
How did you envision attaching this construction plywood? Is it supposed to lie on top of the rafters? Then you have over 20 cm of air and insulation up to the wood, measured from the gypsum in the ceiling. Additionally, it's tricky if you end up at the rafter's braces.
It should of course be screwed in from underneath into the rafters. You may need to install nogging between the rafters at some points so that the cross joints of the plywood are also screwed. This is not needed for strength reasons but to make it look neat.
You can weld a metal frame that you can lay against the top side of the ceiling. The frame should have four brackets/arms that hook around the beams. In the frame, you can embed 25 mm construction plywood.S Skogsbullen said:
It is possible to place the boards on the råspont and attach joists to the rafters with beam shoes, and then fasten the boards to the joists, thus there isn't a large air gap to overcome.
And then a plexiglass window in the ceiling up towards the construction so that it really stands out. Such a work of art should not just be hidden in a bunch of loose wool.R RapidSledge said:
Yes, I'm mostly leaning towards this approach. I'll be using some 18 mm plywood in the build anyway, so doubling those boards should hold well. A few crossbars with the bottom edge 36 mm higher than the rafters' bottom edge, and then screwing the boards in from underneath.R rävlyan said:
The idea of placing 25 mm boards under all the rafters, followed by battens and gypsum, seems like a worse solution. You'd have to do it throughout the entire room, and it would lower the ceiling by 25 mm.