I was thinking of using exterior paneling (21x120) as an interior ceiling, with the smooth side facing down towards the room.
It's intended for outdoor use, could that be a problem?
Should it stay indoors and dry a little more before I install it? If so, how long?
Background:
I have nice wooden ceilings in the living room and hallway, and I was thinking of installing something similar in the new kitchen in the extension. It's built like a battened facade, with almost the same dimensions for the bottom and cover boards, and the cover boards are about 12 cm wide.
That kind of boards (to the extent that such wide ones exist) in planed wood for indoor use are, if I'm not mistaken, insanely expensive and probably not intended to be used in the amount I need. Hence, exterior paneling...
It's intended for outdoor use, could that be a problem?
Should it stay indoors and dry a little more before I install it? If so, how long?
Background:
I have nice wooden ceilings in the living room and hallway, and I was thinking of installing something similar in the new kitchen in the extension. It's built like a battened facade, with almost the same dimensions for the bottom and cover boards, and the cover boards are about 12 cm wide.
That kind of boards (to the extent that such wide ones exist) in planed wood for indoor use are, if I'm not mistaken, insanely expensive and probably not intended to be used in the amount I need. Hence, exterior paneling...
Member
· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
Wood is wood, I don't see any problems with that. However, you might be right that the moisture content can be quite high in a regular lumber pile for direct indoor use. But if you want to mimic a lock joint ceiling, you have a lot of milling and planing to do starting from panel boards. If you're also planning to use a significant amount, it doesn't seem like an easy home project.
See pictures and price list at
http://listspecialisten.se/locktak.htm
See pictures and price list at
http://listspecialisten.se/locktak.htm
Well, I'm not expecting to have to mill or plane at all, I plan to lay the flat side of the outer panel downward, toward the room.
I'm placing the "bottom" boards with just under 12 cm gaps and covering the gaps with cover boards.
Additionally, there will be a frame around the room at the same level as the cover boards.
So it's going to be a sturdier version than on the page you linked to.
I'm placing the "bottom" boards with just under 12 cm gaps and covering the gaps with cover boards.
Additionally, there will be a frame around the room at the same level as the cover boards.
So it's going to be a sturdier version than on the page you linked to.
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Member
· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
The machined side, the backside, of a panel board is not particularly flat but rather wavy from a rough cutter. They are not planed on the backside to be nice but to maintain the correct dimensions. If you paint this, the cutter waves will be visible. Maybe that's completely fine, but you should be aware of it. I've made that mistake a few times outdoors.
Hm, interesting...
Looking at the ceiling in the living room, I do believe there are such waves.
On the back of the exterior panel boards I have at home, I can barely see any, though. It could of course be a matter of light and angle, but if I haven't thought about the waves in the existing ceiling until now, it's probably not an issue for the new ceiling.
But fun with new learning, didn't know about it before!
Looking at the ceiling in the living room, I do believe there are such waves.
On the back of the exterior panel boards I have at home, I can barely see any, though. It could of course be a matter of light and angle, but if I haven't thought about the waves in the existing ceiling until now, it's probably not an issue for the new ceiling.
But fun with new learning, didn't know about it before!