How to stabilize wall insulation between wind barrier and interior wall panel?

[CarJ]

Drive a line of brads into the furring from the inside and press the insulation onto them

Maybe I'm misunderstanding you now, but the problem is that if we had wider furring/battens, we wouldn't have a problem. The battens are 22x45 wide and the studs are 45x95, so there's nothing protruding from the battens on the sides of the studs that can be reached from the inside to provide support. It's simply a construction thinking error that now needs to be fixed.

 

[Bo arnold]

Then you have a problem, so there is nothing across in the wall. There is a possibility to try using spray adhesive and spray a few lines on the inside of the wind barrier and glue the insulation against it; you could possibly do it on the inside of the insulation as well when you install the inner panel, then the insulation should stay in place. I can add that I have done this when placing insulation against a vapor barrier in the installation layer to keep the insulation hanging in place while I worked.

 

[CarJ]

Then you have a problem, there is nothing across the wall. There is a possibility to try using spray adhesive and spray some lines on the inside of the wind barrier and glue the insulation to it, you might also do this on the inside of the insulation when you put in the inner panel, then the insulation should stay put. I can add that I have done this when I was installing insulation against the vapor barrier in the installation layer to keep the insulation in place while I worked.

That was a creative solution The battens on the outside between the wind barrier and outer panel are only 22 mm. I wanted them thin to prevent too much "draft," just ventilation and to prevent moisture migration. This means there's not much space for the insulation to bulge outward before it comes into contact with the outer panel. A bit of glue between the insulation and inner panel might help somewhat. Do you have any more creative ideas on how we can maintain a gap between the wind barrier and outer panel?

 

[Bo arnold]

It is also possible with perforated strip across, tightened with screws into the vertical studs.

 

[CarJ]

It also works with perforated tape across that tightens with screws into the upright studs

Considered that, but I'm thinking if you have metal so close to the cold side but on the inside of the windproofing, the warm moist air will condense against the metal, creating a more concentrated moisture build-up. But maybe that's overthinking it?

 

[Bo arnold]

It's probably not a problem, as it's a common method to cross-brace buildings with hålband.

 

[Karrock]

Is it possible to go down to 70mm insulation boards instead? And/or mount from the inside with a bit sticking inward and press into place with the inner layer. Then the boards should not press on the wind barrier, right?

 

[CarJ]

Is it possible to go down to 70mm insulation boards instead? And/or install from the inside with some protruding inward and press into place with the inner layer. Then the boards should not press against the wind barrier?

That could be a solution but there will be very large air pockets with a risk that the insulation will collapse and/or fall outward. The cabin is supposed to be transported several miles to the mountains by truck, so it will probably get shaken quite a bit 😀

 

[Karrock]

Okay. But use rock wool instead. It will fit and hold its shape, and it's not that bad with moisture.

 

[Bo arnold]

Considering that the cabin will be relocated, I would suggest you need to use cross-bracing to make it stable enough, otherwise, the frame may twist since you don't have any full-covering panels anywhere.

 

[Matti_75]

Peta between the battens among the other battens that help keep the insulation in place. Stone wool works just as well if you want to change the insulation.

 

[CarJ]

Ok. But take stone wool instead. It will fit and hold its shape, and it's not that bad with moisture.

The cabin will be heated for shorter periods during the winter and will be left cold in between. Stone wool requires a vapor barrier on the warm side which can cause moisture problems. If the cabin was heated all the time it would be different, then it could be a good solution.

 

[CarJ]

Considering that the cabin will be moved, I would say that you need diagonal bracing to make it stable enough, otherwise the frame might twist since you don't have any continuous panels anywhere.

Good points, doesn't nailed wood paneling work in the same way as continuous panels?

 

[CarJ]

Insert a batten between the other battens that helps keep the insulation in place. Rock wool works just as well if you want to change the insulation.

Hi Matti, I've been considering installing battens from above. We will place battens between the roof trusses to install paneling there, and the battens can then extend a bit down the wall below. Due to how high we've gotten with the external paneling on the different sides of the cabin and the projecting roof, it limits the length of the battens we can get down.

 

[Bo arnold]

I am not a designer, but in a wall with horizontal boards both on the inside and outside, I would like to have a diagonal brace since each board can otherwise be displaced sideways with rough handling. This is easy to do on the internal studs by tensioning steel bands diagonally before you install the panel.