KnockOnWood said:
Are you for real?
The construction examples provided by sources like the wood guide are based on the experience of what works.
If that is not good enough for you and you want to "reinvent the wheel," you should be glad to receive just a few "funny" answers.

Take your construction drawings to the building committee and to your appointed controller, and you'll see "funny answers"!
Hmm...
Seems like I made a misunderstanding, a big one too.
...or remember something wrong.

I will research the matter and get back to you.

Feel free to answer my other questions in the meantime!
 
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The moisture barrier, how should it be incorporated between the outer wall and the inner wall?

I have made 3 images:

Diagram showing a cross-section of wall construction with moisture barrier placement between the outer and inner wall; includes labels for materials.

Diagram showing a cross-section of a wall construction with layers labeled: brick facade, timber stud, moisture barrier, gypsum board.

Cross-section diagram of a wall with moisture barrier placement between outer and inner layers, indicating different construction materials.
-Which one is preferable?

I hope the differences can be seen, otherwise I'll make them even clearer.
 
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M-E said:
Slab-on-grade means it's not a question of if but when you have to repair to access what needs to be repaired.
Yes, but the clever thing about a slab-on-grade is that you never need to get under it to repair.
 
M-E said:
The moisture barrier, how should it be integrated between the outer wall and inner wall?
None of those suggestions looked particularly good. Try to create an installation layer inside the plastic.

If I were building a house with masonry, I would use blocks of lightweight concrete. Then you avoid a moisture barrier except in wet rooms. Wall viewed from the outside:
10 plaster
100 concrete
200 insulation
250 concrete
5 natural gypsum
 
Locke said:
Yes, but the clever thing about a slab on grade is that you never need to go under it for repairs.
?

What do you do if there is a problem with, for example, the sewer pipe?

You can't lay that on top of the slab, you have to go through the slab.

Same for water-in.

...or am I thinking wrong again?
 
You don't need to worry about water in or out during your lifetime.
 
ME: Yes, I think you're a bit mistaken here. Slab-on-ground is probably the most common way to build small houses today, and there are obviously good reasons for that.

If you want to build cheaply, like a summer house or guest cottage, a post foundation might be relevant, as it avoids the worst moisture traps of a crawl space, but you miss out on some advantages of building directly on the ground.
 
Locke said:
None of those suggestions looked particularly good. Try to get an installation layer inside the plastic.

If I were building a house with masonry, I would use lightweight concrete blocks. Then you avoid moisture barriers except in wet rooms. Wall seen from the outside:
10 plaster
100 concrete
200 insulation
250 concrete
5 natural gypsum
-Any good picture of how it should look?
 
Search for Leca - manufactured by Weber - they have a design manual that was at least previously available for download in PDF format. There you can see some different construction examples.
 
-Is slab-on-ground the most common?
I have both heard and read that crawl space is supposed to be the most common.

If slab-on-ground is so good, why is crawl space used at all?
 
To my knowledge, it is not used to a particularly large extent anymore. There are certain advantages - for example, when working with prefab, but for you who will probably build the house yourself as I understand it, I don't see any advantages.
 
I have been thinking about something today:
When you burn wood, air is consumed.
If you take air from inside, cold air must seep in to replace the air that the wood boiler consumes.

If you take air from outside, you keep the warm air inside.

-Can you take air from the crawl space to kill two birds with one stone?

1. You keep the warm air inside.

2. You get better ventilation of the crawl space.
since the boiler sucks out air from there.

...or am I thinking wrong again?
 
I do so. An air duct opens into the floor in front of the stove. The stove draws in the cold air, burns the oxygen, and sends the smoke out through the chimney.

If you take the air from the supply vents, you risk cold drafts, not so fun to have over the sofa or in other places.

But start by choosing the basic construction and type of frame. The supply air to the stove will come in chapter 6.
 
Another consideration:

If there is a short distance between the bedrock and the ground surface...

-How much is the moisture problem in the crawl space eliminated if constructed like this:
Diagram of crawl space construction showing 2 meters of soil and 3 meters to bedrock, highlighting insulation, exterior walls, and foundation details. ?
 
As far as I know, that's not typically how it's done - 3 meters is quite a lot. I think it would have been better to fill that volume if it's not going to be used for anything.

Having bedrock down there isn't without its problems either. Often there is water that is bound to the surface of the bedrock or seeps through the cracks - it can be quite a large amount.

It's hard to say anything general - but I think a slab on ground is better.
 
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