Hi, I have this ceiling in two bedrooms and don't like it at all. Do you put renovation plasterboard on the ceiling to make it smooth, or is it worth skim coating? In the rest of the house, we have plasterboard with a routed joint that we prefer. Is it only screwed to the ceiling? Does it need to be attached to a joist?
Hello, I have this ceiling in two bedrooms and I don't like it at all. Should renovation plasterboard be installed to make it smooth, or is it worth applying a skim coat? In the rest of the house, we have plasterboard with a routed joint that we prefer. Is it only screwed into the ceiling? Does it need to be attached to a joist?
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Huntonit is often screwed onto a lath panel. If you want to switch to plasterboard and do it right, I would unscrew the Huntonit panels and replace them with ceiling plasterboard. I believe skim coating would take significantly more work and I'm unsure if it will adhere well to the Huntonit (Masonite-like material), in other words, organic and breathes differently with temperature than plaster does. If you remove and replace with ceiling plasterboard, you also have the opportunity to change the placement of the lights if you wish.
You're thinking of screwing joint to joint? That board material is basically the same as huntonit so it might work, but I would probably take down the old ceiling myself. It's not difficult, just expose the ceiling trim along the long side of the huntonit boards and find the screw heads, then it's just a matter of taking one row at a time.
If you mean filling the ceiling to make it smooth. My opinion, forget it. Just think about standing there and filling upwards, and then sanding it to make it even, plus your neck and shoulders take a lot of strain. It will probably take many hours before you're satisfied, with possibly several rounds of filling.
Thanks.
But what do you think about renovation plasterboard directly on the Huntonit?
That should work fine as well, but if the ceiling sags a bit, it will be noticeable, as renovation plasterboard is 6 mm and follows the substrate. The Huntonit deceives the eye, so it's not visible. 13 mm plasterboard will be more even but is heavier to screw up. Under Huntonit's long sides, there is a sparse panel to screw into (it can also be on the short sides as well). But consider that Huntonit boards have slightly different dimensions that do not match the module dimensions of plasterboard. You should check the measurements.
There are two bedrooms in question, so it might be hard to see if the ceiling is sagging. By the way, the house was built in the 90s. I was mostly wondering if the thinner renovation plasterboard can be screwed directly into the Huntonit regardless of whether you hit a stud i.e.
Paint with regular high-quality paint. All veins disappear after 2 coats. Follow up with sandpaper to remove any paint spills or larger irregularities.
Then, paint once more. Preferably choose a matte paint.
