How to repair a load-bearing post in the staircase?

[pelpet]

The drying time is sufficient but the tile is likely to shatter. I would cut off a decimeter of the post and attach a new piece of wood, then sand and paint. It won't be very noticeable.

 

[sblixten]

As the picture above shows, the post is surrounded by tiles that are cut and laid around it. Would it hold if I filled the hole with concrete, waited a week, and then laid tiles over it? And then embedded a piece of wood that stands on the tile plate? Or will the tile be crushed?

I have done so and my tiles are still intact.
https://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggm...-pa-gammal-platta.html?perpage=15#post2281885

 

[justusandersson]

A normal compressive strength for clinker tiles is about 40 N/mm2. A clinker tile that is 150x150 mm has an area of 22500 mm2 and should therefore withstand 40x22500 N, i.e., 900 kN or about 90 tons if it is loaded over the entire area. The strength is also affected by the properties of the fixative, but I think it can be said that the margins are on the right side in this case.

 

[pelpet]

Tiles themselves withstand pressure, but at the same time, they are brittle. With unevenness, they can easily break.

 

[justusandersson]

The flexural strength of clinker is also very high. However, the pressure must be distributed, preferably over the entire tile, e.g., with the help of a wooden block.

 

[cederbusch]

I assess that the post's size as such covers at least 60% of the plate. Could extend it a bit by adding a "block" with larger dimensions than the post.

But it might be foolish to gamble on such a thing.

 

[cederbusch]

Uh.... I looked at the pictures again and.... 60%. What was I thinking?


What would be the shortest (most appropriate) time to wait for the concrete to cure sufficiently?

 

[vectrex]

Uh... I looked at the pictures again and... 60%. What was I thinking?


What would be the shortest (most suitable) time to wait for the concrete to cure sufficiently?

Depends entirely on how warm it is at the floor. If I assume room temperature, it's completely fine after 3 days. If it's colder, it takes longer.

 

[cederbusch]

It's probably quite chilly, so it will have to stay for a week, I think. Some pictures so far...

 

[Dalbotant]

I absolutely think you should replace the post... Because I have to replace the one in my basement and then I can just copy your solution. Mine is so rotten though that it no longer reaches the floor...

 

[cederbusch]

It was the right decision to fix it anyway!

 

[Oldboy]

It was the right decision to repair it anyway!

What! The whole core is still intact. Would have probably lasted another 50 years.

 

[humla75]

[image]

[image]

It was definitely the right decision to repair it!

I need to do the same before pouring a new basement floor. How did you rearrange the pillar?

 

[Kurtivan]

Need to do the same before pouring a new basement floor. How did you manage to shift the pillar?

It can be seen in the picture, he seems to have screwed sturdy planks onto two sides of the post.

 

[humla75]

I'm now going to take on the same project as the thread creator. Besides fixing the post, I'm working on breaking up the basement floor to cast a new one. I need to first fix the post, then break up the existing floor, and then insulate/cast. I would like to do it this way:

1. Support the post
2. Saw off the post (damaged)
3. Dig a hole, place a concrete slab at the bottom, and mount a footing on this
4. Repair post (new inserts)
5. Fix the post to the footing
6. Break up the floor...etc

I see this as the only way to repair the post and then stabilize it during the period when I remove the old floor until the new one is cast and ready.

Though a bit unsure about possible alternatives for supporting. You can set a strong crossbeam/rule that's screwed into the post with the support of a prop (I need an area around the current post where I can work around when I dig up for the footing etc.).

Does anyone have any creative suggestion?