How to loosen a board without damaging the other boards?

[Yrrol]

Imagine a panel board on the exterior wall and needing to remove one.

I always manage to damage the surrounding boards when I pry around with the large crowbar and end up replacing more boards than I otherwise would have needed.
I know there are nail pullers but they are a bit troublesome and time-consuming.

Curious about how knowledgeable people do it.

 

[tommib]

Place a piece of wood in between when breaking with the crowbar.

If the nail puller takes time, you need to weigh it against the time it takes to replace several boards.

 

[Per i Hamrånge]

I usually "ease" the boards a bit with the crowbar. Gently, preferably with a spacer as tommib writes. Then place a piece of board on the plank and give it a good whack. Hopefully (not always) the plank goes back, but the nail remains with a 2-3 mm grip for the crowbar. Find a good nail puller. There are many variants, some good, others not. They actually work quite well anyway. The investment pays off quickly, compared to replacing more planks than you intended (and the work).

 

[MathiasS]

I've always used one like this:

https://www.maxbo.no/spikeruttrekker-38-450mm-38-bahco-p100261

Heavy and cumbersome and requires some technique, but good when nails need to come out and you've learned to use it.

Otherwise: Shim + a Tove crowbar!

 

[Björn Melander]

If you don't plan to keep the board, you can drive the nail through with a punch.

 

[Marcussjogren]

Start from the bottom? But as I said, it depends on whether you're going to keep it or not.
Pried loose 3 boards from the facade today, from the bottom and none broke even though they were half-rotted at the end grain

 

[Pagno]

It depends a bit on which panel you have and what you are referring to. Many good suggestions already written. If it is tongue-and-groove paneling, nailed correctly, invisibly, it is usually good to split the bad panel piece lengthwise, then break off the part that is not nailed and cut the nails on the nailed part with a Feiner or similar. The difficulty can be getting back a tongue-and-groove board in the middle of the facade. Then I usually cut or whittle away a bit of the notch and the tongue against the house wall part, loosen the boards that are on either side of the hole, and "scissor" in the new piece.

 

[findus42]

MathiasS linked to a nail puller. It is available in a light and handy version. Mine is twenty years old. I believe it was manufactured by Hultafors and was called Atle.

Always good when it seems impossible to get something loose.
Regards, Findus

 

[Marcussjogren]

MathiasS linked to a nail puller. It comes in a lightweight and handy version. Mine is twenty years old. I believe it was manufactured by Hultafors and went by the name Atle.
[image]
It's always good when it seems impossible to get something loose.
Best regards, Findus

Side note: what is the silver-colored tool on the left? I've seen them here and there but never found out what it is

 

[peroande]

Side note: what is the silver-colored tool on the left? I've seen them around but never found out what it is

Gångjärnsriktare.

 

[Lolight]

Actually, you shouldn't do that... but I place the square against the board I want to protect and then the crowbar against it to avoid leaving marks.

 

[Marcussjogren]

Actually, you shouldn't do that... but I place the square against the board I want to protect and then the crowbar against it to avoid getting marks.

Then the new panel board is perfectly cut according to the angled square 😀

 

[Lolight]

Then the new panel board will be perfectly cut after the angled hook 😀

You need to have two hooks, one straight and one angled. The angled one is used where you want to cut at an angle