How to install drywall

[Callemaja]

The question might seem silly, but I would like some tips on how to install drywall in a room with a sloped ceiling without having gaps or edges in the transition between ceiling - sloped ceiling and sloped ceiling - wall.
The room is fully framed, and OSB is screwed in.

How do you handle ceiling moldings in the transition between ceiling and sloped ceiling?

The roof angle is about 40 degrees.

 

[prototypen]

Measure, draw, and cut. Then you can carve.
The ceiling moulding is mitered at 20 degrees.

Protte

 

[TeroM]

Score the drywall on the back and break it forward, but do not split the sheet. This will give you an unbroken transition between the wall and the sloped ceiling. Perhaps apply joint compound in the gap at the back to provide stability for the paper.

 

[empame]

The latter seems smart. Do you cut a slit in the paper after you've mounted it and apply latex in the seam? Or does it hold as it is?

 

[TeroM]

Where I was involved in doing as above, latex was placed behind to support the paper that wasn't cut on the front side.

 

[Callemaja]

Score the back of the gypsum board and bend it forward but don't split the board. This way you get an unbroken transition between the wall and the sloped ceiling. Maybe use joint compound in the gap at the back to give support to the paper.

Have you really done this? It sounds like an impossible task to handle a three-meter-long gypsum board when it’s only hanging by the paper in the middle.

 

[Callemaja]

Is it possible to cut a drywall in more than one way? That is, by scoring with a knife and snapping.

I'm thinking if you can miter the cut at 20 degrees. It would help where the corner ends up.

 

[TeroM]

Helped a carpenter as an assistant. Doing it alone, I don't believe in that ...

 

[Callemaja]

Helped a carpenter as a tradesman. Doing it alone I probably don't believe in ...

Ok, that sounds reasonable.

 

[jerk]

Or you use fermacell plasterboard and then glue the seam, which becomes as strong as the board itself.

 

[Callemaja]

Or you can use fermacell gypsum board and then glue the joint, which becomes as strong as the board itself.

Oh, that sounds reasonable. But if you already have 100 sheets of gypsum, can't you "seal" them?

 

[sandhall]

Drove sparsely close to each other in the angle, steel profile (90 degrees for inner corner that I bent to fit in the angle), drywall that I cut in the usual way. Then fiberglass tape and putty. It has held for 4 years without cracking.

 

[matbanan]

I would have done like Sandhall. Although I think there is sheet metal designed to be bent to the desired angle.

 

[-RB-]

I am working on similar projects. I am screwing horizontal sparse panels at an angle. I make sure to screw them into the same underlying horizontal stud, drywall that is mitered and then I embed a paper tape in the joint with spackle. I hope it holds.

 

[meckis]

There is a sheet called LPP50/50 or ppb 100. It is perforated in the middle so it's easy to fold to the desired angle! Then butt the gypsum boards together. Finish with soft sealant. Ends up COMPLETELY without cracks. The sheet prevents movements. The soft sealant holds it together. Spackling with tape in the corners is endlessly painful and unnecessary. I have built all my walls this way. Incredibly convenient! I only put paper on butt joints and recesses. Never in inner corners. For outer corners, I use an outer corner profile.