Have tried to make a small template for a staircase from a terrace. (Cladding board) Completely disregard the printed rule behind. The terrace is nearly 3m high.
How should I think about the last step? The last step becomes the decking but I haven't decided how I will solve this.
Should the decking have a projection about 5cm over the lower step as the other steps have?
There are different options here...
1. Let the decking end flush with the fascia (white board). Then the last step before the decking will be 5cm deeper than the other steps since the decking doesn't have a projection like the other steps do.
2. Remove the block I've placed by the nail plate, then the last step before the decking will be 5cm shorter than the other steps since "the toe of the foot" hits the fascia.
3. Make a projection on the decking about 4cm out from the fascia and also mount a standing decking board 28x45 on the fascia under the decking. Thus, the projection on the decking will be roughly the same as on the steps.
4. Maybe some other idea that I haven't thought of?
The part of the upper landing that is the last part of a staircase should have the same nosing as the other steps. It can have a different thickness, but the riser height should be the same all the way.
Okay, how would you achieve this with my conditions?
Option 3?
3. Extend the decking approximately 4cm out from the fascia board and also mount a standing decking board 28x45 on the fascia board under the decking floor. Thus, the extension on the decking floor will be approximately the same as on the steps.
I must admit that I tried to express myself somewhat generally because I do not quite understand your images. If by "utstick" you mean nose projection and by "stående trallbräda" you mean an uppermost riser, then the answer is yes.
Correctly understood, sorry for my non-professional language.
How would you do regarding the staircase? It follows a wall and above the camera in the last picture, there is an eave of about 50cm.
I plan to build the staircase under the eave and extend it an additional 120cm out to avoid installing a fence, etc., against the existing wall.
Or would it have been better with only a 120cm staircase with a fence/railing on both sides to protect against the gap that would then be between the staircase and the longitudinal wall...
Agree with Justus. Another thing though: you seem to have a very low step height, recommended is 17–18 cm. It could be an optical illusion, but I guess you have 10–12 in the picture. 17 steps should be appropriate for a three-meter drop.
170 cm is probably too wide for a staircase made of decking. 120 also feels quite wide. 80? That said, it's of course quite practical for stability to be able to attach one stringer to the house.
Perhaps build the staircase 120 but place a planter or something at the very top so you don't accidentally hit your head? A 70–80 cm passage should suffice. But as mentioned, even a 120 staircase might feel a bit wobbly if you don't have good support under the steps.
Let the staircase be free from the eaves. Make it 90 cm wide. Use the staircase formula to calculate the correct ratio between step height and step depth. 2xh+d=60-63, measured in cm.
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