Okay, here comes the next in the series of questions that arise now that I've started with the bathroom. Lots of text, please be patient! 
This time it's about framing the walls. I've never needed to frame before, so now I'm facing some new thoughts.
The outer walls are poorly insulated, so I plan to frame out 45mm to insulate. Then I want to run some pipes and therefore thought to frame an additional 45mm, without insulation. The alternative might be to frame 70mm but only put in 45mm of insulation, but the fact is on one wall, the one with the low ceiling, it's already framed out and about 70mm of straw in the wall. This stands on a floorboard that protrudes slightly from the wall onto the joist. On the other wall, it's about 17 cm between the outer wall with very little insulation and the first joist.
My thought is simply to frame one layer with horizontal 45x45mm, then standing 45x45mm on a 45mm piece lying on the joist.
On the other side, it becomes trickier. There, I want more insulation, so perhaps one can start with standing, then horizontal, then standing again. But no matter how I do it, there's no beam to place the wall on! Any solutions?
I thought to let the insulation in the wall lie against the insulation that should be between the rafters. Same below, where the insulation rests against the joist and the insulation between. Then there will be drywall on the outside of the framing and lastly, drywall on the ceiling.
Does this look okay, or should the ceiling board be installed first? I'm unsure in what order to do it to ensure it becomes tight and proper.
This time it's about framing the walls. I've never needed to frame before, so now I'm facing some new thoughts.
The outer walls are poorly insulated, so I plan to frame out 45mm to insulate. Then I want to run some pipes and therefore thought to frame an additional 45mm, without insulation. The alternative might be to frame 70mm but only put in 45mm of insulation, but the fact is on one wall, the one with the low ceiling, it's already framed out and about 70mm of straw in the wall. This stands on a floorboard that protrudes slightly from the wall onto the joist. On the other wall, it's about 17 cm between the outer wall with very little insulation and the first joist.
My thought is simply to frame one layer with horizontal 45x45mm, then standing 45x45mm on a 45mm piece lying on the joist.
On the other side, it becomes trickier. There, I want more insulation, so perhaps one can start with standing, then horizontal, then standing again. But no matter how I do it, there's no beam to place the wall on! Any solutions?
I thought to let the insulation in the wall lie against the insulation that should be between the rafters. Same below, where the insulation rests against the joist and the insulation between. Then there will be drywall on the outside of the framing and lastly, drywall on the ceiling.
Does this look okay, or should the ceiling board be installed first? I'm unsure in what order to do it to ensure it becomes tight and proper.
Now it's getting closer and I hope for an answer. I feel like I now have a handle on the long sides. But the question is how to deal with the gable wall. As I mentioned, I'm considering adding multiple layers of studs, but I'm unsure how to attach everything.
Will it be stable enough if I nail the first layer to the wall, then the second layer to the first layer, and so on? It will have to support gypsum board and a moisture barrier afterward.
Very grateful for feedback.
Will it be stable enough if I nail the first layer to the wall, then the second layer to the first layer, and so on? It will have to support gypsum board and a moisture barrier afterward.
Very grateful for feedback.
I might be misunderstanding, but can't you on the gable wall glue-screw, for example, a 45*95 to the stud and then nail a base plate for the interior wall to it and frame it with 45*70 c/c 300mm and then add an installation layer for your pipes that you frame with 28*70 and then drywall on that. Such a wall would then build 113mm and if you build the wall with double 45s as you have considered, it becomes 103mm, a negligible difference but you get a bit better insulation.
Yes, I mean, on the long wall I was thinking of using 45*45 in two layers since there are already 70 mm straw boards. The reason I've also considered a 45 for pipe routing is because I plan to have an outlet box for PEX on the wall. It adds a little depth, and 28 mm would be too shallow.Ola78 said:
For the gable wall, I can probably do as you suggest—arrange a sill at the bottom by attaching something to the plank wall that you see protruding there. Then place 45*70 on these. But I'm wondering why cc 300mm? Then I'll do another layer with 45*45 and insert insulation where possible. That should work. How much the gable wall extends isn't crucial in the room, even though every cm is valuable. More important is the ceiling and the long wall.
Thanks for a sensible suggestion!
It is common to set c/c 300 if you are going to have single gypsum board and tiles on the walls so that it becomes sufficiently rigid and does not give way at the joints. Now, I might have assumed that you were going to have tiles, and I apologize if that’s not the case, but if you plan to have a plastic mat on the wall, you can go with 600 instead. If you have double sheet material and tiles, you can go up to 450mm c/c.
No, I won't be using tiles, and it will be simple drywall. I will paint the waterproofing layer.
Another question. I understand the sill. But do the studs also need to be attached to a header? That would create a thermal bridge in that case. If I set 45*70 standing as mentioned above, it should be enough for them to be anchored to the wall. In the next layer, I can position them so the drywall can be screwed on both the short and long sides. Thoughts on that?
Another question. I understand the sill. But do the studs also need to be attached to a header? That would create a thermal bridge in that case. If I set 45*70 standing as mentioned above, it should be enough for them to be anchored to the wall. In the next layer, I can position them so the drywall can be screwed on both the short and long sides. Thoughts on that?
Normally, you would have a top plate at the top of the wall, but in your case where you plan to have the studs directly against the wall, you can surely skip it. Use long screws to attach it, it's generally expected that the screw should be about twice as long as the wood you are fastening. It will be cumbersome to nail, as the nails would need to be very long for stability. Theoretically, you can also skip the sill plate in your case, so you won't have a thermal bridge at the bottom either.