I have removed the treetex from the tongue and groove walls. I'm planning to put renovation plasterboard on them now. Tongue and groove walls are not completely smooth. Will this work? It looked fine to the eye before with the treetex, but as mentioned, it's a "bumpy" wall. With a long level, there are gaps of 3-4mm in some places. The idea was to screw the new boards in place.
Thank you!
The problem with 13mm is that I need every millimeter of space, which is why I would like to go for 6mm. Sounds like I can try a wall with 6mm. If it doesn’t work out, I can always tear it down and install 13mm. It's really only one wall where it matters. The rest will have tall cabinets covering almost the entire area, so it's not visible there. On the wall where it will be visible, 6mm is advantageous from the perspective that treetex was previously installed and 6mm matches better against the windows.
The problem with 13mm is that I need every millimeter of space, which is why I would like to go for 6mm. Sounds like I can try a wall with 6mm. If it doesn’t work out, I can always tear it down and install 13mm. It's really only one wall where it matters. The rest will have tall cabinets covering almost the entire area, so it's not visible there. On the wall where it will be visible, 6mm is advantageous from the perspective that treetex was previously installed and 6mm matches better against the windows.
It's probably easier to get it even if you use glue instead of screws.N Nizztos said:
Construction adhesive (PL400?) on the points in the substrate that are the "highest" and of course around the edges.
Then press the disc in place, and make sure to press it into position over the entire surface.
That's what we did in a toilet/shower/laundry room in the summer cottage, and it turned out really well
Isn't it easy to mess up when you glue? Like having too much or too little glue or in the wrong place? It feels like an art in itself to glue, which you might not master in the same way as screwing in a bunch of screws. Or am I exaggerating the problem?
I actually think it's the other way around, it's easier to glue! If you screw in the "wrong" place, you permanently fix the unevenness. If you glue, and press the plasterboard with, for example, a board or a spirit level, it stays flat and smooth.N Nizztos said:
Without ever having glued a plasterboard, my logical thinking says that KoW must be right. It should even be an advantage to find the "dips" in the wall and apply generous amounts of glue blobs there. This way, when the blobs have cured, the plasterboard won’t warp if, for some reason, you press on it. If you gently press over the entire board with something like a long level or a straight board when placing the plasterboard, you'll press all glue blobs and strings evenly, and the board will remain even. I think... I have no idea how long the curing time for such glue is, but maybe you should keep the board under (moderate) tension for that time...?
I have no idea how long the curing time for such glue is, but maybe you should keep the board under (moderate) tension for that time...?
It's probably not necessary. The glue grips immediately, and the plasterboard is flat by itself.N Nizztos said:
It usually works well with rgips. In old houses, I prefer it because it better follows the wall and looks less artificial (insanely straight when nothing else is straight). Additionally, it echoes less. But if you want it completely straight, I would go with thickgips.
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· Korpilombolo
· 3 727 posts
I have screwed 6 mm plasterboard onto raw wood in two rooms. The walls were then painted and have held up nicely for about 15 years so far. No dents.
If you glue, it won't be fun for anyone in the future who needs to take down a plasterboard.
If you glue, it won't be fun for anyone in the future who needs to take down a plasterboard.