Want the house to be quiet and sturdy so that sound doesn't spread unnecessarily.
How do I construct non-load-bearing interior walls in the house?
OSB and plasterboard are obvious, but what about the framework, so to speak? How do I make the wall quiet and sturdy?
How do I construct non-load-bearing interior walls in the house?
OSB and plasterboard are obvious, but what about the framework, so to speak? How do I make the wall quiet and sturdy?
Member
· Västra Götalands Län
· 529 posts
I assume you are not looking for completely soundproof walls (which is a completely different construction), this is a good sound-reducing wall:
Frame with 45 mm studs, wood. Sill, hammer beam and then studs with 45 mm c/c.
At door openings, add a 70 stud as well.
Simple, i.e., finish one side first. OSB boards, tightly mounted. If the c/c measurement is off, lay the OSB horizontally. It doesn't need to be joined on the stud everywhere then. Otherwise, buy 900 mm boards and start with a full board standing against the wall. Now you see a solid OSB surface, except at doors, where the sides of the stud are visible.
Gypsum 900 mm boards, start with half a board at the wall (so the joint edge doesn't come against the wall). Gypsum the whole thing, now the gypsum also goes over the "door studs."
From the other side:
Make any installations (electric boxes, noggings).
Insulate with rock wool slab (better against sound than glass wool).
Add OSB and gypsum on this side as well.
Done!
Frame with 45 mm studs, wood. Sill, hammer beam and then studs with 45 mm c/c.
At door openings, add a 70 stud as well.
Simple, i.e., finish one side first. OSB boards, tightly mounted. If the c/c measurement is off, lay the OSB horizontally. It doesn't need to be joined on the stud everywhere then. Otherwise, buy 900 mm boards and start with a full board standing against the wall. Now you see a solid OSB surface, except at doors, where the sides of the stud are visible.
Gypsum 900 mm boards, start with half a board at the wall (so the joint edge doesn't come against the wall). Gypsum the whole thing, now the gypsum also goes over the "door studs."
From the other side:
Make any installations (electric boxes, noggings).
Insulate with rock wool slab (better against sound than glass wool).
Add OSB and gypsum on this side as well.
Done!
You mean 450? In this case, isn't it better to frame cc 600? Since the studs carry the sound through the wall, there should be as few of them as possible.Niclas Jonsson said:
Make sure to seal against the floor, ceiling, and side walls. Otherwise, the sound will slip through there.
Member
· Västra Götalands Län
· 529 posts
Sure, I meant 450 of course.
The wall will still be quiet, no reason to put in extra effort to extend the spacing to 600, as everyone knows that means larger boards = poor working environment.
Agree on the sealing, no harm in soft caulking all the edges with cheap latex sealant before the plasterboarding.
The wall will still be quiet, no reason to put in extra effort to extend the spacing to 600, as everyone knows that means larger boards = poor working environment.
Agree on the sealing, no harm in soft caulking all the edges with cheap latex sealant before the plasterboarding.
Good description! But 70-stud at door openings, what do you mean by that? Don't you just let two of the vertical studs serve as the "frame mount"? And do you mean that the rest of the wall is also framed with 70-studs (x45)?Niclas Jonsson said:
/A
Maybe there is a greater risk that a 45 joint will crack when you drive in the frame screw, hence the choice of 70 mm?
It may be wise to place a 70-rule on the "platten" by the door. More stable against all loads and more for the frame screw to grip into. On the side where the switch is, maybe it would be better to use a 45x95, so the junction box is away from the door trim. Otherwise, add some padding.
Yes, slightly. But then you need to know where you plan to hang things already when you're building. :xMrTim said:
I myself use OSB + plasterboard, and I believe that combination is about 2dB worse than double plasterboard on both sides.
Another variant is to set sill and wall plate with 45x70 and then studs with 45x45 that are offset like this:
________________________
........[ ].......... [ ]
[ ].......... [ ]
-----------------------------------
Viewed from above and [ ] are the studs.
The advantage is that there's no contact between the boards and less sound between the rooms. For heaven's sake, don't forget to seal with, for example, a sealing strip between the floor and sill, ceiling and wall plate, and outer stud with the wall.
________________________
........[ ].......... [ ]
[ ].......... [ ]
-----------------------------------
Viewed from above and [ ] are the studs.
The advantage is that there's no contact between the boards and less sound between the rooms. For heaven's sake, don't forget to seal with, for example, a sealing strip between the floor and sill, ceiling and wall plate, and outer stud with the wall.
But as soon as we start complicating things with more than double drywall or OSB+drywall and sealing any gaps, the door will actually be the weakest link.
A typical cardboard/masonite door probably has significantly more flank transmission than a standard wall. So if we start with double drywall, the door should probably also be replaced with a better one. And if we make an even more advanced wall, the door should probably have exterior door quality, with tightly sealing strips around the entire door frame, etc.
A typical cardboard/masonite door probably has significantly more flank transmission than a standard wall. So if we start with double drywall, the door should probably also be replaced with a better one. And if we make an even more advanced wall, the door should probably have exterior door quality, with tightly sealing strips around the entire door frame, etc.
I became a bit curious about how much the door affects, as I am also working on creating well-damped walls.
And.
A relatively poor standard door doesn't have more sound insulation than 30dB. For example:
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListingFlera.aspx?id=39923
And a wooden stud wall with single plasterboard without insulation provides 25-30dB, i.e., roughly equivalent performance.
http://byggsystem.knaufdanogips.se/xpdf/03_kd_system_innervaegg_traregel.pdf
With insulation, you get an additional 5 dB.
Double plasterboard + insulation = 35-40dB damping, so you should ideally have a door with at least class R’w 35 dB to make good use of the fine wall.
And here is some reading material to get a sense of what the different dB values can mean in practice.
http://www.swedoor.se/index/prof_forum/ljudreduktion_faq#punkt1
And.
A relatively poor standard door doesn't have more sound insulation than 30dB. For example:
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListingFlera.aspx?id=39923
And a wooden stud wall with single plasterboard without insulation provides 25-30dB, i.e., roughly equivalent performance.
http://byggsystem.knaufdanogips.se/xpdf/03_kd_system_innervaegg_traregel.pdf
With insulation, you get an additional 5 dB.
Double plasterboard + insulation = 35-40dB damping, so you should ideally have a door with at least class R’w 35 dB to make good use of the fine wall.
And here is some reading material to get a sense of what the different dB values can mean in practice.
http://www.swedoor.se/index/prof_forum/ljudreduktion_faq#punkt1
I've been thinking about getting doors that really seal tightly, but then the next problem is ventilation.Mikael_L said:
Then there will be a vent in some wall instead to get exhaust air from the room, and that might not look so nice either.
Ok, stupid question now then - 45mm stud x what?
From the posts, it sounds like you're assuming 45x45, but you can't mean that, right?
And if the wall's thickness is "optional" in the example above, I'm still wondering how the 70-rule at the door should be mounted.
If you have both base and top plate as well as studs in 45x95, would it then be difficult to screw the frame into these standing 95s?
/A
From the posts, it sounds like you're assuming 45x45, but you can't mean that, right?
And if the wall's thickness is "optional" in the example above, I'm still wondering how the 70-rule at the door should be mounted.
If you have both base and top plate as well as studs in 45x95, would it then be difficult to screw the frame into these standing 95s?
/A