I think it was the summer of 2012, or otherwise the summer of 2013, that I bought a lot of paneling that has been stored indoors in cold storage.
I have now framed, will paint these boards and nail them up to create a new wall for the (cold) machine hall.
Now, the wood shouldn't shrink any more after lying for so long, right? Or how does it work?
- Should I still construct them in a special way and consider that they might shrink later and gaps might become larger, etc.?
I have now framed, will paint these boards and nail them up to create a new wall for the (cold) machine hall.
Now, the wood shouldn't shrink any more after lying for so long, right? Or how does it work?
- Should I still construct them in a special way and consider that they might shrink later and gaps might become larger, etc.?
Wood shrinks because water evaporates.
So it stops moving when it finds its equilibrium with its surroundings.
Therefore, dry wood expands if it ends up in a humid environment and vice versa with moist wood.
In outdoor constructions, the wood follows its environment... Dry in spring/summer, wet in autumn/winter
/ATW
So it stops moving when it finds its equilibrium with its surroundings.
Therefore, dry wood expands if it ends up in a humid environment and vice versa with moist wood.
In outdoor constructions, the wood follows its environment... Dry in spring/summer, wet in autumn/winter
/ATW
Member
· Blekinge
· 12 293 posts
All wood swells and shrinks with the seasons, whether it is indoors or outdoors. Very fresh wood should naturally dry, preferably in the room where it will be used. Thin wood a couple of months, thick wood about a year. Painting and nailing should take into account that the wood moves during the year. It is widest in August/Sept, narrowest in Feb/March.
If someone reads this thread in the future, I can mention that I nailed up the boards with a nail's gap between them, just before the official spring, and about a month later the distance between the boards is about two nail widths.
- So instead of struggling with nailing, I could have laid board against board and gotten a suitable final result a month later... Unless they become larger again, but if they shift that much, I wonder if I shouldn't have used screws after all.
- So instead of struggling with nailing, I could have laid board against board and gotten a suitable final result a month later... Unless they become larger again, but if they shift that much, I wonder if I shouldn't have used screws after all.
Member
· Västra finlands
· 7 posts
For my part, I think it's a bigger problem if you use wood that is too dry and nail it tightly; it swells and comes loose in more humid weather. I once paneled a playhouse's interior wall with panels I had kept indoors over the winter; even though I tried to leave expansion gaps, the wall looked like a wave a few weeks later—I had to remove one and a half boards if I remember correctly (about 150mm on a 1500mm wall!)
Member
· Västra finlands
· 7 posts
a small tip to get some idea of how much the wood moves— Cut a block 100x50, the length doesn't really matter, store it indoors for a couple of weeks and measure it on all sides (if possible, measure down to tenths) write down the measurements and measure again during different seasons, then you'll have numbers to work with for future needs. Remember that slowly grown wood and fast-grown wood behave differently, and yes, different types of wood as well, of course.
Christer
Christer
Now I'm excited to continue working on the slamfärg-building and wonder again if it's a good or bad time to do it. I can't say I've seen many others out working just now.
Do I even need to analyze whether the wood is wet or dry in the store's indoor storage?
Can I use a millimeter gap between the boards, or is that too little?
Do I even need to analyze whether the wood is wet or dry in the store's indoor storage?
Can I use a millimeter gap between the boards, or is that too little?
If you buy lumber from a lumberyard, it is somewhat half-dry, and it will shrink a little more, but not nearly as much as, for example, pressure-treated wood does. If you wish for a gap like a blade in a folding rule, you should place something half as thick in between during nailing.
If it's some movement allowance that will be covered by a batten later, you can go ahead and use the folding rule, as the extra millimeter after drying does absolutely no harm.
I'm wondering a bit about what you have planned and how. Should it be board against board, without cover? Are gaps desirable, or do you want the gaps to nearly close up when it's swollen the most, and then just be what they are when it's as dry as possible? (i.e., minimal gaps)
If it's some movement allowance that will be covered by a batten later, you can go ahead and use the folding rule, as the extra millimeter after drying does absolutely no harm.
I'm wondering a bit about what you have planned and how. Should it be board against board, without cover? Are gaps desirable, or do you want the gaps to nearly close up when it's swollen the most, and then just be what they are when it's as dry as possible? (i.e., minimal gaps)
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