Do you have to glue and fuss?
 
Glue and screw. You can ignore the hassle; it usually works fine anyway.
 
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Magnusnu and 5 others
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A screw is often threaded 2/3 of its length, you probably want a screw that is 80mm long.
You don't want the threads to grip in both timbers.
Pre-drill one of the timbers (a little) to maximize joining the timbers together.
 
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Reviving the thread as I have similar considerations. I will be making two posts later on that will support a hea220 beam. As for the posts, I've thought of making them out of wood. From what I'm envisioning, there are three solutions, but the question is which one to go with. The post should be approximately 220x125 in total. Option 1: Two pieces of 2"x9" and one piece of 1"x9" flat. Option 2: Like an "I", with two pieces of 2"x5" and one piece of 2"x5" across. Option 3: Four pieces of 2"x5" and one piece of 1"x5". What would you choose, if you understand my thought process? :)
 
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1 1alexander said:
What would you have chosen
The cheapest. But the posts have been decided long ago, right?
 
C
Lifting the thread. Good tips, but in which direction, i.e., happy or grumpy face, should you join 2 or 3 studs to a post really? A carpenter I exchanged a few words with said maybe you should place the grumpy face outwards. Grumpy face out on both sides, that must mean.

I am going to join 3 studs, where the middle one is quite in the core (apparently not as durable wood) so it probably doesn't matter how it lies, but if you have 3 "regular" ones. How do you think they should be joined?

When it comes to decking, there seem to be different opinions, but now it's about standing posts and thicker wood if it matters. I am mostly thinking about not wanting a gap to open up between the studs after a few years, but maybe that never happens if you glue it?
 
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Timber that is 45 mm thick barely bends, does it?
 
C Chippe said:
Raising the thread. Good tips but in which direction, i.e. happy or sad face, should you put together 2 or 3 beams for a post actually?
A carpenter I exchanged a few words with said maybe you should put the sad face outward. Sad face out on both sides it must mean.
I will put together 3 beams, of which the middle beam is pretty much in the center (apparently not as durable wood) so it probably doesn't matter how it lies, but if you have 3 "regular" ones. How do you think you should put them together?

When it comes to decking, there seem to be different opinions, but now it's about standing posts and thicker wood if that makes a difference. I'm mostly thinking about not wanting a gap that opens up between the beams after a couple of years, but maybe that never happens if you glue?
The right method must be to split the beam and turn one piece, push it through the planer, and then glue it together again so that any movement forces cancel each other out. However, it sounds a bit overworked for a post.

Annual rings straighten out as wood dries.

I would just bang these three beams together without regard to annual rings at all. Aren't you going to clad the post so it’s not visible?
 
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FredrikR
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C Chippe said:
Raising the thread. Good tips, but in which direction, i.e., happy or sad face, do you assemble 2 or 3 studs into a post actually?
A carpenter I exchanged a few words with said that maybe you should place the sad face outward. Sad face outward on both sides must be the implication.
I am going to assemble 3 studs, where the middle stud is quite in the core (apparently not as durable wood), so it probably doesn't matter how it's placed, but if you have 3 "ordinary" ones. How do you think they should be assembled?

When it comes to decking, there seem to be different opinions, but now it's about standing posts and thicker timber if it matters. I'm mainly thinking about not wanting a gap to open between the studs after a couple of years, but maybe that never happens if you glue?
If I'm nailing or screwing a post that's going to be visible, I naturally make it attractive enough for the purpose. If it's going to be clad, you just make it strong enough and hardly consider how the growth rings are oriented.
I've never needed a glued post since there are good laminated wood options available to order if standard construction timber isn't sufficient.
 
C
I put the outside of the timber facing out, but maybe it's just a matter of gluing together and having the nicest sides facing out. All the beams are flat and straight except one that is somewhat concave, but it should be fine. I'm not going to cover them, so the joints will be visible on two sides of the post, but it doesn't bother me.
 
C
Nyfniken Nyfniken said:
Wood that is 45 mm thick barely bends, right?
I have a piece of 45x200 in the garage left over, and it is straight but actually quite bowl-shaped.
 
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Perplexus and 1 other
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