The times I have seen a carpenter join a post, they have just nailed or screwed the studs straight up and down.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 051 posts
Without glue, a massive post is better.
If you use PU glue, apply glue on one piece and moisten the other; if you have plenty of clamps, use them or screw relatively closely. PU glue requires high pressure as it tends to expand.
Protte
If you use PU glue, apply glue on one piece and moisten the other; if you have plenty of clamps, use them or screw relatively closely. PU glue requires high pressure as it tends to expand.
Protte
PU - is it polyurethane?
Sounds reasonable as the prototype with several writes. To get multiple parts to cooperate, it's necessary to manage shear forces between the parts. If you don't, you'll have parts acting independently. Compare this to a plank between two supports. Place a milk carton in the middle, and it bends down. Add another plank and repeat the same thing. The deflection is almost the same. Now try using three screws so the planks can't slide between each other. Probably no significant deflection.
I usually use two pieces of 45x195 with a 45x95 on edge in between. This forms an I-profile. I haven’t calculated what such a column can handle in terms of load, but it’s substantial. Suitable for carports, decks, etc.
One very important thing with all column/beam constructions is that the supports are properly executed. Here, you want to distribute the load evenly across the entire column's cross-section so that you don't get stress concentrations that risk crushing the column's end.
Another thing that's good to consider is trying to make the column bear the load without surrounding building parts having to bend down first. I usually use a jack to lift the beam properly and almost lift the load a little before I install the columns.
Sounds reasonable as the prototype with several writes. To get multiple parts to cooperate, it's necessary to manage shear forces between the parts. If you don't, you'll have parts acting independently. Compare this to a plank between two supports. Place a milk carton in the middle, and it bends down. Add another plank and repeat the same thing. The deflection is almost the same. Now try using three screws so the planks can't slide between each other. Probably no significant deflection.
I usually use two pieces of 45x195 with a 45x95 on edge in between. This forms an I-profile. I haven’t calculated what such a column can handle in terms of load, but it’s substantial. Suitable for carports, decks, etc.
One very important thing with all column/beam constructions is that the supports are properly executed. Here, you want to distribute the load evenly across the entire column's cross-section so that you don't get stress concentrations that risk crushing the column's end.
Another thing that's good to consider is trying to make the column bear the load without surrounding building parts having to bend down first. I usually use a jack to lift the beam properly and almost lift the load a little before I install the columns.
Ok, I get your point. In this case, the posts will be covered with panel boards, so any screws will not be visible. My basic idea was to save a few kronor on the lumber cost, but since it turns out that there's only a ten kronor difference between two meters of 45x95 and one meter of 95x95, the savings are probably offset by the cost of screws and glue.
But now at least I know how it all fits together
/Joel
But now at least I know how it all fits together
/Joel
Member
· Nuevo Estockholmo
· 3 529 posts
That's how I always do it.blygarn said:
Go for it!
Additionally, there is less risk of cracks in a glued post.blygarn said:
