smurfen72 said:
I have stainless steel railings on the boat and they are from -97 and still fresh, they wouldn't have been in galvanized. If you choose the right alloy on stainless steel, they should last forever, but they become expensive and now Ts doesn't like their appearance, so galvanized is the way to go.
I meant that they weren't shiny after a while, and the salt film had to be polished off regularly, hardly something to do with material quality. By the way, there are guardrails older than your boat railings that are fresh, and they are in worse environments.
 
The whole question is about which alloy the stainless steel is made from. "Rostfritt" ranges from sink quality (poor) to acid-resistant and even better. It is a question of the cost and the knowledge of the purchaser.
 
Nice railing Thomas_Blekinge :thumbup:

What are the dimensions of the pipes? I'm deciding between 17 or 21 millimeters, but I'm leaning towards 17 since I think it looks sleeker. This will then be mounted in a 70x70 pressure-treated post and a top rail.

Regarding stainless steel, we have some A4 screws on the boat with rust spots, while the docks have hot-dip galvanized braces that are more than 20 years old without any signs of rust...
 
Thank you, mexi!
One should never mix metals in exposed environments. Admittedly, I have stainless steel cap nuts on my hot-dip galvanized railing, but I see them as consumables.
 
Oh, the dimension of the pipes in your railing then? ;)
 
T Thomas_Blekinge said:
My railing looks like this (hot-dip galvanized):
Hello Thomas, nice railing you’ve made.
I was thinking of doing something similar but with a cable below and a thick teak top rail.
Only posts that are screwed into the side of the deck and into the teak.
What do you think I should use for dimensions, flat steel like yours about 70x10 mm, could that work?
Best regards, Karl
 
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