8,367 views ·
18 replies
8k views
18 replies
Horizontal planks on wall
Planning to install finely-sawn planks on the wall in our TV room, but I'm wondering how best to attach them??
I will mix 70, 95, 120mm to get a more vibrant look rather than just the same dimension.
The wall there today is double plasterboard.
Should I screw or nail them?
- straight in from the front?
- diagonally down on the narrow side (width)?
- glue and nail?
- Just glue? (Which glue)
Another consideration, should I go with 22mm on the wall or plane it down to about 17mm?
I've searched for similar questions but haven't found any.
Best regards,
Christian
I will mix 70, 95, 120mm to get a more vibrant look rather than just the same dimension.
The wall there today is double plasterboard.
Should I screw or nail them?
- straight in from the front?
- diagonally down on the narrow side (width)?
- glue and nail?
- Just glue? (Which glue)
Another consideration, should I go with 22mm on the wall or plane it down to about 17mm?
I've searched for similar questions but haven't found any.
Best regards,
Christian
Last edited:
Made such a wall a few weeks ago and then we screwed straight from the front with strip screws/floor screws.
I think you should increase the dimension mixing 120 145 170 instead, otherwise, it becomes very striped.
I think you should increase the dimension mixing 120 145 170 instead, otherwise, it becomes very striped.
Okay, thanks, what dimensions did you use?larsbj said:
How long should one wait so it doesn't dry apart then? Wood is living, so it moves all the time...
But we think it's okay with cracks, but now I'm wondering if it dries apart a lot or if it's only a few mm
The wall is only 386x245
The wall we made was made of 22x195. But it will certainly look nice with variations. It depends a bit on how raw the wood is from the lumberyard, but it can shrink up to 5% when drying.
We made such a wall in September. Installed 22x120 with a brad nailer in between (about 1 mm). We nailed the boards with a brad nailer. Today, we have gaps between the boards of varying widths, from 2-3 mm up to 6-7 mm. However, we find it charming and stylish, remember to make sure to have an okay color behind the boards if you intend to allow shrinkage as we have done, the underlying color shows through in certain lighting.
I also installed "plankvägg" but chose tongue-and-groove paneling which allows for invisible mounting. I used panel clips which worked well since there is gypsum and chipboard behind.
Thanks.larsbj said:
Did you dry them before putting them up?
Did you dry these before or did you put them up directly from the lumberyard?roggabear said:We made such a wall in September. We placed 22x120 with a brad nailer gap (about 1 mm) between them. We shot the boards up with a brad nail gun. Today, we have gaps between the boards of varying widths, from 2-3 mm up to 6-7 mm. We still find it charming and nice; remember to ensure you have an ok color behind the boards if you plan on allowing shrinkage as we did, the color behind shines through in certain lighting.
Yes, the wall behind will have the same color tone as the front.
How closely did you place the brads?
/c
Put up tongue and groove boards in the last house in one room and chamfered paneling in another. My father has just put up a kind of exterior paneling in my parents' bedroom. I can't remember the name of the paneling, but it turned out really nice. On the tongue and groove, I used brads in the groove.
I got the tip many years ago that the length should be at least 2 timeswrang said:
the thickness of what you are fastening. I put mine up with a battery-powered finish nailer and everything is still holding
I used 50 or 52's finish nails.
