Hello!
We have a small problem in the attic. Along one side, we've built a long box where we plan to store lots of junk
No, but, bed linens and Christmas candleholders among other things.
Each lid will vary in size as it depends on the compartment size, but all will be 900 deep and the width is up to 1200 at its widest.
Everything is intended to be built in 16 mm MDF.
Let's see if I can even explain. All the way inside after the Masonite, there will be a fixed board, so you can't reach there unless you want to (it will be possible if you want since the transformers for the spotlights are located there).
Another beam will be set up in the front part between the support legs to attach a front to the box.
And then to the lid. It doesn't need to be anything high-tech. Just a small notch in the front part of the lid so you can lift it, and some arrangement with a stick underneath to keep the lid open. But how should we do it? What kind of hinges do you need? I would prefer not to see them if possible.
Do you even understand what I mean?
We have a small problem in the attic. Along one side, we've built a long box where we plan to store lots of junk
No, but, bed linens and Christmas candleholders among other things.Each lid will vary in size as it depends on the compartment size, but all will be 900 deep and the width is up to 1200 at its widest.
Everything is intended to be built in 16 mm MDF.
Let's see if I can even explain. All the way inside after the Masonite, there will be a fixed board, so you can't reach there unless you want to (it will be possible if you want since the transformers for the spotlights are located there).
Another beam will be set up in the front part between the support legs to attach a front to the box.
And then to the lid. It doesn't need to be anything high-tech. Just a small notch in the front part of the lid so you can lift it, and some arrangement with a stick underneath to keep the lid open. But how should we do it? What kind of hinges do you need? I would prefer not to see them if possible.
Do you even understand what I mean?
I think I understand what you mean. The back edge of the hatch should go back towards the low box wall that is already in place in the pictures? The lid is lifted up towards the slanted ceiling at the back and should therefore have hinges at the back? The hinge according to the link can be placed at the bottom edge of the lid and the top edge of the rear box wall so it is not visible. http://www.jula.se/gangjarn-75x50-mm-343419 You may need to reinforce the box wall, hard to see what it consists of.... Such hinges are available in all sorts of variations and price ranges.....
The simplest solution to keep the hatch open is to place a hinged rod on each side of the underside of the hatch at the front edge. The rod is placed straight down in a suitable groove inside the front wall of the box in the open position and simply pushed back into the box when it is to be closed. If you want to completely remove the rod when closed (so it doesn't rest against the box floor) you can attach Velcro or a magnet or something so it is secured against the lid when closed.
Some tips....
The simplest solution to keep the hatch open is to place a hinged rod on each side of the underside of the hatch at the front edge. The rod is placed straight down in a suitable groove inside the front wall of the box in the open position and simply pushed back into the box when it is to be closed. If you want to completely remove the rod when closed (so it doesn't rest against the box floor) you can attach Velcro or a magnet or something so it is secured against the lid when closed.
Some tips....
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Build pull-out drawers instead.
Have fixed lids and place pillows, blankets etc on them.
Lids will drive you crazy, crush fingers, there will be things on the lid you have to move first etc......
BUILD PULL-OUT DRAWERS!
Have fixed lids and place pillows, blankets etc on them.
Lids will drive you crazy, crush fingers, there will be things on the lid you have to move first etc......
BUILD PULL-OUT DRAWERS!
that is why the regulations are a bit weak right now. the partner has built for pull-out drawers but how are we going to get the drawers past the base rule?
Build shallow boxes on top of the rule, or change the rule. The space in all these boxes will last quite a while even if they are shallower.
there are only 20 cm according to the rule and the rule cannot be changed as it is for the support legs.
the boxes are adapted to the support legs and the rule
the boxes are adapted to the support legs and the rule
If we compare pros and cons of pull-out drawers vs lids
Lids
+Can utilize the whole space and can lay down long items
+cheapest solution?
-Cumbersome, inconvenient to move things.
Drawers
+much more convenient to just pull out
-lose space
-more expensive
Feel free to expand on the list or correct me.
Now I'm getting decision anxiety :/
Lids
+Can utilize the whole space and can lay down long items
+cheapest solution?
-Cumbersome, inconvenient to move things.
Drawers
+much more convenient to just pull out
-lose space
-more expensive
Feel free to expand on the list or correct me.
Now I'm getting decision anxiety :/
The one on top with a lid that you mentioned seems most sensible to me
then you can maybe customize some compartments for your curtain rods etc.
and then you have some where you can place smaller cardboard boxes, for instance with small items
it's not too troublesome if you want to change, for example, one compartment to something else
fun with beans that hop around and fix and tinker
then you can maybe customize some compartments for your curtain rods etc.
and then you have some where you can place smaller cardboard boxes, for instance with small items
it's not too troublesome if you want to change, for example, one compartment to something else
fun with beans that hop around and fix and tinker
It is my partner who will be building the boxes. He's just not much into forums, so I'm asking for us
However, I will be the one painting everything, so this month I promised myself a paint sprayer that I hope I will manage to handle.
However, I will be the one painting everything, so this month I promised myself a paint sprayer that I hope I will manage to handle.
Do you think a regular small hinge can lift such large lids?
I don't want to build something that breaks immediately.
My partner says it's best to use long ones like on stable doors, but I don't find that very interesting.
Where can one find rods with a spring, I wonder? I'm thinking of something like those used on doors but with a slightly weaker spring... And maybe longer.
Why is it so easy to draw but hard to execute?
I don't want to build something that breaks immediately.
My partner says it's best to use long ones like on stable doors, but I don't find that very interesting.
Where can one find rods with a spring, I wonder? I'm thinking of something like those used on doors but with a slightly weaker spring... And maybe longer.
Why is it so easy to draw but hard to execute?
ha ha sticks from the trunk
then she must also have a lock, otherwise, the lid will stay open all the time
Yep piano hinges work and don't break
There are many large massive wardrobe doors fitted with piano hinges
and moreover, it only shows a small rounded brass edge (I would have installed such myself)
the lid would be made in MDF, right? create a small overhang a few cm so you don't have to drill holes or attach handles
since the lids probably won't need to flip up and down nineteen times a day (or is it going to be a flea market bazaar)
the simplest seems to be, as someone wrote, sticks on each side with a small hinge
when you open it, it stands up by itself (or as someone suggested, use Velcro so it attaches under
the lid and stands up when released (I have that construction on the lids in the outhouse)
then she must also have a lock, otherwise, the lid will stay open all the time
Yep piano hinges work and don't break
There are many large massive wardrobe doors fitted with piano hinges
and moreover, it only shows a small rounded brass edge (I would have installed such myself)
the lid would be made in MDF, right? create a small overhang a few cm so you don't have to drill holes or attach handles
since the lids probably won't need to flip up and down nineteen times a day (or is it going to be a flea market bazaar)
the simplest seems to be, as someone wrote, sticks on each side with a small hinge
when you open it, it stands up by itself (or as someone suggested, use Velcro so it attaches under
the lid and stands up when released (I have that construction on the lids in the outhouse)
Would you like to post a picture of your konstruktion?
Thinking about maybe installing something like this inside all the doors. http://m.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/art/80230224/
Those cabinet openers probably don't work. With them, you should be able to press the cabinet door a little, and they push the door out slightly. I doubt it works with lids that lie flat.
Do you mean the construction with the rods? Easy to explain. Open a lid as much as you want. Place a rod between the lid and floor at the height you want. Screw a small hinge into the lid/rod. Put a small piece of Velcro lower down on the rod and the corresponding piece in the same spot on the lid (press the rod there before closing).
Since you have a rule at the top under the sides of the lid, you can rout out a groove in these (where the rod should fit). Then mount the rod with a hinge as I described (but no Velcro). When you lift the lid, the innermost end of the rod will fall down, and the lid is open. When you close it, push the rod in, which slides along the groove until the lid closes (a simple construction). But if you have the rod dragging on the floor, there might be problems (because other things are in the way or lying there).
Do you mean the construction with the rods? Easy to explain. Open a lid as much as you want. Place a rod between the lid and floor at the height you want. Screw a small hinge into the lid/rod. Put a small piece of Velcro lower down on the rod and the corresponding piece in the same spot on the lid (press the rod there before closing).
Since you have a rule at the top under the sides of the lid, you can rout out a groove in these (where the rod should fit). Then mount the rod with a hinge as I described (but no Velcro). When you lift the lid, the innermost end of the rod will fall down, and the lid is open. When you close it, push the rod in, which slides along the groove until the lid closes (a simple construction). But if you have the rod dragging on the floor, there might be problems (because other things are in the way or lying there).