Alright, I'm with you. I myself used square tubes 15x 20 x 2 in thickness. Then I drilled holes at the top and bottom and three more in between on the wide side. I used a 10 mm drill for the large hole, then an 8 mm hole at the back. I then fastened the tubes with screws and plugs with about 80-90 cm between the tracks. Where needed, I placed washers behind to achieve "level." Once everything was soldered in, I mixed grounding mortar A. This allowed for a more relaxed pace to finish everything. I let the grounding mortar dry for a day. The next day, I checked how much material was needed, in some places it was 20 mm where Finja (brilliant support) advised that I had to apply a layer first. I applied masonry and plaster mortar C and made sure nothing protruded beyond the tracks, I tried to make the surface as uneven as possible so the next layer of plaster would adhere well. The next day, I watered the wall again, then mixed masonry and plaster mortar C, and when it was time to apply it to the wall, I used three methods. 1 threw with the mason trowel, 2 applied with the board, 3 threw with my hand. As I said, I started by throwing with the trowel but before doing so I watered the wall (water hose) then took a bit of plaster mortar on the trowel and threw or rather snapped it against the wall. Did this for a while but got quite tired in the arm so I switched to 2, applying plaster with the board. However, it was difficult to get enough on to reach the level of the tracks. So only small sections of the wall were done this way. On the applied layer, I then threw more mortar with the trowel. But what I used the most was taking mortar in my hand, took a handful (size 10 glove) probably doesn't matter much! Then I had the plaster board upside down in my other hand with mortar on it. Then it was just a matter of starting to throw. However, use fully covered rubber gloves. For the first wall, I used a glove made of fabric on the back of the hand, ouch, the sores lasted for a month. Not recommended, concrete is severely corrosive, but for the next wall, I used a full rubber glove, worked perfectly and no sores. Then I think I scraped the surface more often than usual. But it felt good to scrape off when the entire width of the track was covered, about 30 cm high. Took a 1x5 inch board. Started at the bottom and with zigzagging movements worked my way up the wall. If there were holes, just threw more mortar there and repeated the zigzagging until satisfied.
Good and bad things during the work process.
Good
nice with tracks already set up, even and good without stress.
throwing with hand
Bad
poor gloves
too thick in some places
applied too much material at times, resulting in patches coming off, but it was easy to throw on new and slightly less.
Good and bad things during the work process.
Good
nice with tracks already set up, even and good without stress.
throwing with hand
Bad
poor gloves
too thick in some places
applied too much material at times, resulting in patches coming off, but it was easy to throw on new and slightly less.
Are you attaching a render mesh? Then this nail usually works well. http://www.gunneboindustries.com/sv-se/Fastening/Produkter/Spik/Specialspik/Bandhake/