Blueprint section of a 1960s split-level house showing roof trusses, labeled for tile or cement roof, and detailed measurements.

Hi all knowledgeable people!

I actually have two questions regarding the drawing.
1. Can you tell just from the drawing if the roof trusses are "self-supporting" (is that the right term :o?)? I am really wondering if any of the interior walls on the second floor are load-bearing.
2. I am planning to demolish an old garage in the basement to insulate and pour a new slab with underfloor heating, then convert it into a regular room. What does the drawing actually say? Why does it look the way it does in the bottom left corner, and what does it mean?

The house is of the sutteräng type and was built in the mid-60s.

I hope someone wants to take the time to help me with these questions :)
 
1: The truss is self-supporting but since the house has a certain age, a truss may have bent down and rests on an internal wall that has since become load-bearing. Tear down carefully to see how it is.
2: The measure can be performed but what the drawing means with a recess, yes maybe space for installations. Do you have a floor plan as well?
 
Found some more images that might help to understand a bit better how things stand.
Blueprint showing a two-story house elevation and floor plan with labeled rooms and dimensions.
Blueprint showing a cross-section through an outer foundation wall, detailing floor levels and construction measurements, labeled by Aneby Industries.
Blueprint showing a cross-section of a building's wall and foundation, detailing measurements and materials used for construction.
Blueprint of a building layout showing detailed floor plan dimensions and room labels, including garage, hallway, and living spaces.
Architectural blueprint showing detailed cross-section of a building structure with annotations and measurements, labeled "SYSTEM L60A" from ANEBY Hus.
 
From what I understand, the residential rooms have a recessed slab underneath to accommodate studs and/or insulation. Your section shows just such a part.
Your construction drawing in plan view shows a section in the left bedroom, G-11, that section is shown on the lower section drawing.
Anyway, you should remove the slab and insulate before laying a new floor.
 
Why even bother with underfloor heating?

We have lived here in the Nordics for thousands of years without underfloor heating, and I don't have any in my newly built, now six-year-old house.

Buy a pair of slippers for 10 SEK at your nearest supermarket instead if your feet feel cold :)

And place a couple of rugs in the walkways on the basement floor.
 
It is clear that one can settle for a pair of slippers, but I definitely prefer underfloor heating. As it stands, the wastewater and incoming water that pass through this area must be chiseled out and replaced in any case, and then it will probably have both insulation and underfloor heating in the new slab :)

Thanks for the response regarding the drawings :thumbup:
 
Money down the drain with the floor heating operation, agree with Senioren KoW here. Ok you have a lot of free time and too much money, maybe, but otherwise...
 
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KnockOnWood
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one- said:
Sure, you can settle for a pair of slippers, but I definitely prefer underfloor heating...
OK, those are your kilowatt-hours.

By the way, how do you heat the house?
 
KnockOnWood said:
OK, those are your kilowatt-hours.

By the way, how do you heat your house?
Geothermal heating is what applies here.
 
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