So Frippe, you don't recommend a layer of foil behind the drywall on the inner wall? And why? What I've/we've heard is that you should have it to prevent inner moisture from penetrating the wall.
What do I know? Just what I've heard.
Best regards,
Jennie
What do I know? Just what I've heard.
Best regards,
Jennie
OK!! Now I think the amateur builder has understood it correctly?
From the inside to the outside.
Drywall-sheathed planks-45*45 (extra insulation) Behind the insulation, construction film that can allow some moisture through, not too dense plastic is recommended.
45*195 (frame), meaning the strong studs replacing the removed beams. No insulation between these studs/frame?
Exterior drywall (instead of wind barrier), we’ll see what we choose, lol
Nail battens-panel. Using the existing ones, as they are undamaged, since the moisture moved inward and caused the damage there.
"In the latest house, we added another 45*45 (insulation) between the frame and the exterior drywall." Ok, smart, we'll see what it comes to. Perhaps not smart if you use paper, if the moisture gets trapped in the insulation?
From the inside to the outside.
Drywall-sheathed planks-45*45 (extra insulation) Behind the insulation, construction film that can allow some moisture through, not too dense plastic is recommended.
45*195 (frame), meaning the strong studs replacing the removed beams. No insulation between these studs/frame?
Exterior drywall (instead of wind barrier), we’ll see what we choose, lol
Nail battens-panel. Using the existing ones, as they are undamaged, since the moisture moved inward and caused the damage there.
"In the latest house, we added another 45*45 (insulation) between the frame and the exterior drywall." Ok, smart, we'll see what it comes to. Perhaps not smart if you use paper, if the moisture gets trapped in the insulation?
But the question is how the remaining parts of the house look.. I live in a cottage that we are renovating, and it has standing timber with 80cm centers (built with a sill and a beam as a wall plate). There it is outer panel-frame (insulated with sawdust)-slat board-masonite-wallpaper, so honestly, I don't know how to approach a "moisture" barrier in an old house. Maybe someone else has some suggestions.
In new houses, it's precisely a tight plastic that's placed here. You don't want any moisture migration from inside to outside.Jennie 29 said:
Without having more specific knowledge of old wooden houses than my own house from the 1920s, I would still assume that the principle should be the same; you don't want humid air into the wall (I don't see any upside to it, but definitely a downside), but then there shouldn't be an additional tight layer outside either.
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Fruppe.
Thank you for your posts.
Thinking about wind barrier film/construction film, behind rough sawn timber 45 45. The film diffuses and allows the house to breathe.
I agree that it's not good to build too tightly in old houses, which creates additional problems.
What created the problem is that the previous owner built a dormer and the drainage in the angle didn’t hold tight when the ice thaws and the ice expands, so we know the problem is local. We have exposed the walls in an upcoming bathroom, and it looks like old solid timber should look, rock-hard and dark with no tendency to fall apart. Similarly, we have a cold storage area where the logs are visible, and it's the same there, with ventilation/open towards the attic, and it looks healthy (thank goodness). Old houses stay quite healthy if they can breathe if I haven't misunderstood the matter.
Thank you for your posts.
Thinking about wind barrier film/construction film, behind rough sawn timber 45 45. The film diffuses and allows the house to breathe.
I agree that it's not good to build too tightly in old houses, which creates additional problems.
What created the problem is that the previous owner built a dormer and the drainage in the angle didn’t hold tight when the ice thaws and the ice expands, so we know the problem is local. We have exposed the walls in an upcoming bathroom, and it looks like old solid timber should look, rock-hard and dark with no tendency to fall apart. Similarly, we have a cold storage area where the logs are visible, and it's the same there, with ventilation/open towards the attic, and it looks healthy (thank goodness). Old houses stay quite healthy if they can breathe if I haven't misunderstood the matter.
Do not like the previous owners right now I can add, and our money should go to sealing the angle and getting it properly done by a professional so that the problem doesn't persist.
living in Sundsvall if anyone wants to come and help Ha ha. just kidding, it's starting to feel quite OK now, it seems manageable to do by a single woman (my partner has a herniated disc and has to handle the ground service instead)
living in Sundsvall if anyone wants to come and help Ha ha. just kidding, it's starting to feel quite OK now, it seems manageable to do by a single woman (my partner has a herniated disc and has to handle the ground service instead)
Are you building new and have a bathroom/shower room against an outer wall, what do you do with the plastic?
Honestly, I think you could replace the plastic with a wind barrier, so double wind barriers. But I can't answer how that would work.
Edit:
Mostly because I hate the plastic roll and stapling the crap
Honestly, I think you could replace the plastic with a wind barrier, so double wind barriers. But I can't answer how that would work.
Edit:
Mostly because I hate the plastic roll and stapling the crap
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True upstairs.
In the bathroom, we had actually planned to put a waterproof layer directly behind the concrete boards in the bathroom. perhaps unnecessary, the waterproof layer behind the tiles and under the clinker might be sufficient. now we are talking about 2 different rooms, and we shall wait with the bathroom and get more help with it from professionals.
In the bathroom, we had actually planned to put a waterproof layer directly behind the concrete boards in the bathroom. perhaps unnecessary, the waterproof layer behind the tiles and under the clinker might be sufficient. now we are talking about 2 different rooms, and we shall wait with the bathroom and get more help with it from professionals.