Hello all helpful people!
I just repaired a stone staircase with cement. Since I did it yesterday, I expected it to be rock hard today, but it's no harder than regular chalk! :eek:
The bag says Kalk-Cement, what is this?? Is it something else or?
Hope someone out there can clarify this for me..
I just repaired a stone staircase with cement. Since I did it yesterday, I expected it to be rock hard today, but it's no harder than regular chalk! :eek:
The bag says Kalk-Cement, what is this?? Is it something else or?
Hope someone out there can clarify this for me..
Lime cement is used for bricklaying and plastering.
I suspect that you tried to cast a thicker layer with this?
I suspect that you tried to cast a thicker layer with this?
Not really my area.
But I think your lime mortar is a (in this context) weak mortar. For a staircase, you need a stronger mortar due to wear and tear, frost damage, and such.
So now you need to remove the mortar (/cement) you applied. Ideally, you should chip away a little bit to expose the surface of the old concrete.
Then, you never use pure cement for any kind of masonry/casting/plastering. Cement is the binder and should be mixed with something, often sand and gravel of various sizes, depending on the use. But also probably some other stuff depending on the application area, since you use different things for masonry than for plastering, etc.
Now, I don't know this very well as I mentioned, so I don't have any in-depth knowledge.
But I think you should remove the old material as thoroughly and carefully as possible. If you have a small demolition hammer or hammer drill with a chiseling function, you can quickly go over the surfaces with this. You don't need to remove anything deeply, just hammer a bit on the surface to remove what you applied + other dirt and get a fresh concrete surface. It might not be very important, but it's definitely not a disadvantage.
Then you buy a bag of fine concrete, for example,
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=4509
There are equivalent products from Byggmax, Bauhaus, the local building supplier, Granngården, etc.
The products are likely quite similar.
This is a ready-made concrete, i.e., cement, sand, and smaller stones, which only needs to be mixed with water.
Mix thoroughly according to the instructions, if you have a drill with low speeds, you can usually mix it with a whisk in a bucket. Use a little less water, 2-3 dl less for a whole bag.
Then when you've finished mixing and the concrete has rested for a minute, check if you think the consistency is right for your job. Otherwise, add a small splash of water until it's right. A dl makes a big difference.
Note, do not trust the measuring scale on masonry buckets one buys.
I have checked two types (Jula, Biltema), both were hugely miscalibrated.
The old concrete you are going to pour on should be watered thoroughly beforehand, so it is damp, otherwise water will be absorbed from the new concrete you apply, so it won't cure, just dry. Then there is a big risk that the newly poured slab will come off quite easily.
But I think your lime mortar is a (in this context) weak mortar. For a staircase, you need a stronger mortar due to wear and tear, frost damage, and such.
So now you need to remove the mortar (/cement) you applied. Ideally, you should chip away a little bit to expose the surface of the old concrete.
Then, you never use pure cement for any kind of masonry/casting/plastering. Cement is the binder and should be mixed with something, often sand and gravel of various sizes, depending on the use. But also probably some other stuff depending on the application area, since you use different things for masonry than for plastering, etc.
Now, I don't know this very well as I mentioned, so I don't have any in-depth knowledge.
But I think you should remove the old material as thoroughly and carefully as possible. If you have a small demolition hammer or hammer drill with a chiseling function, you can quickly go over the surfaces with this. You don't need to remove anything deeply, just hammer a bit on the surface to remove what you applied + other dirt and get a fresh concrete surface. It might not be very important, but it's definitely not a disadvantage.
Then you buy a bag of fine concrete, for example,
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=4509
There are equivalent products from Byggmax, Bauhaus, the local building supplier, Granngården, etc.
The products are likely quite similar.
This is a ready-made concrete, i.e., cement, sand, and smaller stones, which only needs to be mixed with water.
Mix thoroughly according to the instructions, if you have a drill with low speeds, you can usually mix it with a whisk in a bucket. Use a little less water, 2-3 dl less for a whole bag.
Then when you've finished mixing and the concrete has rested for a minute, check if you think the consistency is right for your job. Otherwise, add a small splash of water until it's right. A dl makes a big difference.
Note, do not trust the measuring scale on masonry buckets one buys.
I have checked two types (Jula, Biltema), both were hugely miscalibrated.
The old concrete you are going to pour on should be watered thoroughly beforehand, so it is damp, otherwise water will be absorbed from the new concrete you apply, so it won't cure, just dry. Then there is a big risk that the newly poured slab will come off quite easily.
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Now I know what to do today! 
There is material specifically designed for repairing stairs. For individuals, marmocit (unsure of the spelling) is recommended, I cannot recommend regular mortar. The staircase takes a lot of wear and should ideally last a long time. Remember to also use a good sealer, preferably a 2-component one. However, they tend to become more "glossy." I also usually mix in some non-slip protection in the final coat. Good luck
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