Hi! I've bought a house project with various problems. :| (I've negotiated the price significantly, but still...)

The latest issue is that the house should be a split-level, but it's now plastered all around and 2 stories. It's timber-framed on the ground level with foam insulation behind it. So it's well insulated. A total of about 250 walls, approximately + the plaster layer.

The ground should really be against the house, but instead, there's a terrace built there. This isn't according to the building permit, and everything needs to be redone so it becomes a parking space due to the steep slope of the plot.

The problem then is, of course, that the wall probably can't withstand the ground pressure that will arise.

How can this be solved in a good and sustainable way?

Large L-supports, or build a new lecablock wall outside the plaster? What's the cheapest?

Or are there other alternatives?

Tips are gratefully received!
 
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Start by hiring a constructor who can calculate what the wall can withstand since you are unsure. Maybe you can build a buttress?
 
Absolutely, it's done through markgubben. But I wanted to dig a bit myself into what options are available. Then we'll see if it matches with what my markgubbe comes up with :) (of course, I trust him and his construction contact to solve it)

However, I have a feeling this will be expensive.

A wall with supporting "kontrefor," as you mentioned, is likely what it will have to be. Alternatively, gigantic L-supports that are placed on site. I really have no idea about the pricing of either of these two.
 
Still need tips here, or someone who can recommend a constructor in Southern Stockholm? I've got a couple of names but no one is responding. I need someone who can calculate this and draw something up so my Garbo insurance can be valid!

The wall is about 11 m long and 2.8 m high.

My mason thinks 250 cm wide concrete blocks and buttresses. About 20 cm air gap against the plastered wall so it won't be affected by potential ground moisture. The wall should then be drained as usual to protect against frost heave.

Who can calculate that a wall of X thickness will hold?

Keep in mind that 2-3 cars should also stand on the parking area TO THE RIGHT of the entrance (wrote wrong).

SEE DRAWING :)
 
  • Side view architectural drawing of a house on a slope, showing a parking area with a car and labeled elements like air gap, wall, soil, and rock.
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Sounds a bit crazy to have an air gap but not be able to perform maintenance? (drainage or whatever it might be)
I would aim to make it big enough to walk there.
 
I was thinking the same thing, alternatively placing isodrän or equivalent in the gap. The downside of having a wider gap is, of course, that you run into issues at ground level if you plan to use it as parking.

Is it an option to try to solve this from the inside so you can fill the materials directly against the wall? Is it possible to reinforce the internal structure so the wall can withstand ground pressure, perhaps?
 
Yes, maybe it's silly with a cavity at all. But tearing down the plaster wall on the house and building in that way isn't ideal either. It's a very expensive and risky task as well.

The problem with too large a cavity is that it takes up much of the parking space. There's quite a little room!

Can one build along the plastered wall and have some material in between that keeps it dry?

Another option would be to cast a thick concrete slab that is elevated and thereby retain the walkway visible in the picture. But is that even feasible?
 
Johnny Viking said:
Can you build along the plastered wall and have some material in between to keep it moisture-free?
Yes, if you place isodrän in between, it should stay moisture-free. Their support is helpful, so a call there is free. You shouldn't need to touch the plaster either, or do you mean it is built directly on the cellular plastic? It shouldn't be risky to replace it with a properly built wall that can withstand the pressure then?

The problem with a concrete slab is that it must rest on something in the house structure…. If it's just thin plaster, that won't be enough….
 
Nothing is set in stone yet.

There are still problems with ground pressure if you build directly against the house with isodrän in between.

Normally, the house rests on top of a built wall. That's where it gets its load-bearing capacity. But in this case, it would be a freestanding wall.

The idea with a concrete slab for parking there would be to then have a steel beam along the entire house.

But how on earth do you cast a slab in the air? You'd have to build a monstrous bridge, right?
 
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Alex_M
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If someone here has done this before, knows that it works, contact me... ! It would be great if someone could just look at the junk, say "this is how we do it!" and say that it costs X kronor. Done.
 
You might want to check with the member Jajada who seems to have good knowledge about casting and masonry. He has a really cool thread here on the forum about his "little" stone house build....
 
Yes, have seen it. However, Garbo requires a "signature" from some constructor or someone who takes responsibility if it goes haywire one beautiful day. Do not want to have to stand there and pay everything out of pocket again.
 
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mexitegel
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Right now it looks like I'm choosing 2.7m high and 1m wide L-supports. I've gotten good prices on those. They should withstand 20nm (I don't know anything about that) but the person I spoke with sounded knowledgeable. He couldn't guarantee anything himself, but over-dimensioning is better in my case.

Apparently, those pieces weigh 1.5 tons each.

One thought I have to maybe further ensure no flexing is to lock all the L-supports at the top with an overlying HEA steel beam that holds all the L-supports together in a row.

So if there is pressure on one side, the load is distributed over the others.
 
The steel beam will inevitably rust over time.
If the L-supports do not lock against each other anyway, it is probably better for you to cast and reinforce a beam at the top.
 
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