Member
· Västra Götalands län
· 109 posts
Ok, thanks for the response. I have a similar situation with my basement concrete walls. There are certain areas where paint and concrete have come off due to moisture caused by interior insulation (done in the 80s). There are also concrete corners where I suspect plastic paint, so everything has come off. House from the 1920s. Reparationsbetong was it.
This was the written recommendation I received.
"In the 1930s, it was common to cast with concrete of mediocre quality. There are some minor moisture damages, usually near the floor. It may be appropriate to repair these. It is important not to use a plastic paint (too dense). A silicate paint, on the other hand, facilitates drying. The repair can be done in a traditional way, that is, with diffusion-open materials, i.e., repair concrete and plaster."
"In the 1930s, it was common to cast with concrete of mediocre quality. There are some minor moisture damages, usually near the floor. It may be appropriate to repair these. It is important not to use a plastic paint (too dense). A silicate paint, on the other hand, facilitates drying. The repair can be done in a traditional way, that is, with diffusion-open materials, i.e., repair concrete and plaster."
Member
· Västra Götalands län
· 109 posts
Ended up using Combimix Lagningsbruk. Worked well once you got the technique down. Chipped away all old loose bôs, brushed clean, watered with a wet broom (very important step I realized to get it to adhere), and then tried to apply it as evenly as possible. After 1-2 hours, roughed up the surface with my work gloves (I guess the pros use a board or something similar for this) to remove irregularities and get a "plastered texture". Now it just needs to dry properly, then it will be painted.
I usually use a mason's brush for fine texture.
Member
· Västra Götalands län
· 109 posts
Makes sense.MultiMan said:
Realize that I can post the entire condition assessment if someone wondering about their own old basement finds the thread:
"Measurement of reinforcement with an electromagnetic cover meter type Elcometer at two places showed that there is no reinforcement more shallow than 80 mm. The basement wall is probably unreinforced. Its thickness also indicates this. Therefore, no corrosion damage will occur in the basement wall.
In the 1930s, it was common to cast with concrete of mediocre quality. There are some minor moisture damages, mostly near the floor. It may be appropriate to repair these. It is important not to use a plastic paint (too tight). A silicate paint, on the other hand, facilitates drying. The repair can be done in the traditional way, with diffusion-open materials, i.e., repair concrete and plaster.
In my assessment, it is not necessary to perform an external expensive drainage.
Should it turn out that the leakage becomes more extensive, crystallization agents, such as Penetron, could seal in wet concrete."
"Measurement of reinforcement with an electromagnetic cover meter type Elcometer at two places showed that there is no reinforcement more shallow than 80 mm. The basement wall is probably unreinforced. Its thickness also indicates this. Therefore, no corrosion damage will occur in the basement wall.
In the 1930s, it was common to cast with concrete of mediocre quality. There are some minor moisture damages, mostly near the floor. It may be appropriate to repair these. It is important not to use a plastic paint (too tight). A silicate paint, on the other hand, facilitates drying. The repair can be done in the traditional way, with diffusion-open materials, i.e., repair concrete and plaster.
In my assessment, it is not necessary to perform an external expensive drainage.
Should it turn out that the leakage becomes more extensive, crystallization agents, such as Penetron, could seal in wet concrete."