Good quality nails

[FredrikR]

What is 3" used for in terms of tasks then?

Panel, battens, sparse, trim, corner boards, bargeboards, raw tongue and groove, etc.

Had you planned to use 4" throughout?

You can check out more here:
https://shop.svenskttra.se/media/1226/skruv-och-spikguide.pdf

 

[Nygge72]

Panel, cladding, lathing, lining, corner boards, bargeboards, boarding, etc.

Were you thinking of using 4" all through?

You can have a look here:
[link]

I'm not a carpenter so I never speak in "inches" 🤣 So I thought you meant nails thicker than the one I posted. No, of course, it should be smaller for the parts you mention, I was thinking. But now I thought I might just buy for the frame and maybe the next phase with lathing to attach outside the west coast sheathing.

But really big thanks for posting this. I've seen it before, but forgot it existed.

What I find hard to find, however, is panel nails for the gun, as I'm thinking tar vitriol and apparently it should be stainless steel and not hot-dip galvanized nails.

 

[Lutte]

You can also indulge with Gunnebo's stainless-steel panel screws which are really nice!

I also think that Gunnebo has a stainless steel 34⁰ full-head panel nail. Check out their catalog and order at byggladan for professionals.

 

[Nygge72]

You can also indulge in Gunnebo's stainless steel panel screws which are really nice!

I also believe that Gunnebo has a stainless steel 34⁰ full-head panel nail. Check out their catalog and order from byggladan for professionals

Thanks. Shall check that.

I only found one that was for a gas nailer, so they included a gas cartridge, but I use a battery so I don't want to pay for a gas cartridge. So I thought I should be able to find another one.

 

[FredrikR]

I'm not a carpenter, so I never speak in "inches" 🤣 So I thought you meant thicker nails than the ones I posted. No, of course, it should be smaller for the parts you mention as I had planned. But I was just thinking of buying only for the frame perhaps and maybe the next step with battens to attach outside the west coast sheet.

But really, big thanks for posting this. I've seen it before, but forgot it existed.

What I'm having a hard time finding, though, is cladding nails for the gun, as I'm considering tar vitriol and apparently, it should be stainless and not hot-dip galvanized nails.

Senco seems to have them.

 

[Nygge72]

Senco seems to have.
[image]

🙏 big thanks! I will check it out.

 

[Nygge72]

If you have construction (outside the rule)
Rule - wind barrier - west coast board 50mm - batten 12 - nail batten 25 - panel 21. Then you should be able to use a panel nail that is 63mm, right?

I think it might go a little into the west coast board, does that matter, or should it be completely avoided? I wonder if it causes issues via the nail in that case.

 

[Jansson69]

If you have a build-up (outside of the rule)
Rule - wind barrier - west coast board 50mm - batten 12 - nail batten 25 - panel 21. Then you should be able to use a panel nail that is 63mm?

I’m thinking it might go slightly into the west coast board, does it matter or should it be avoided completely? I’m thinking if you lead in moisture via the nail in that case.

Nail batten 25mm is too weak if you have 600c/c on the framework, it will split after you have nailed up the panel.
28x70 is usually the minimum dimension we use, and then 63mm panel nails are too long.
2.8x50mm is a better length.

 

[Nygge72]

Nail battens 25mm are too weak if you have 600c/c on the framework, they will crack after you have nailed up the panel..
We usually use 28x70 as the smallest dimension, and then 63mm panel nails are too long..
2.8x50mm is a better length..

Sorry, I probably meant mostly 48x28. Tried to recall how thick they were from memory. But apparently didn't remember 😀, but of course 70x28 works as well. Thanks

 

[Jansson69]

Sorry, I meant mostly 48x28. Tried to recall from memory how thick they were. But apparently didn't remember 😀, but of course, 70x28 works as well. Thanks

Take 28x70 as the minimum since you're using the west coast board where plastic spacers are used between the frame and the battens, it becomes stable and good.

 

[Nygge72]

Take 28x70 as the minimum since you will have the west coast board where plastic spacers are used between the framework and the nail batten, it becomes stable and good..

And this should then work for the panel with iron vitriol?

https://www.senco.se/sv/produkter/infaestning/spik/stavspik/p/GE51AGBKR

 

[Jansson69]

And should this work for the panel with järnvitriol?

[link]

I'm not very knowledgeable about järnvitrol as we always advise against it and rarely work with it..
But from the little I know, stainless steel nails are usually used if you apply järnvitrol to the facade..

 

[Nygge72]

I'm not very familiar with iron vitriol since we always advise against it and rarely work with it..
But the little I know is that stainless steel nails are usually used if you apply iron vitriol on the facade..

How come carpenters often hand-nail paneling, as opposed to using a nail gun?

 

[Jansson69]

How come carpenters often hand-nail panels, as opposed to using a nail gun?

It's probably different for everyone, but I wouldn't want to do it if I was still active, you wear out your arm by nailing so much...
Those I know who only build villas never hand-nail such large areas precisely because of the strain, but as a novice, it's not so bad since it takes a while for a novice to clad an entire house...

The bailout best result is with hand-nailing, but if you set the pressure a little loose on the nail gun and hand-drive the last bit, it works well with a nail gun if you just find a nail with a nice head...

 

[Nygge72]

It's probably a bit different, but I wouldn't want to do it if I were still active; you wear out your arm with so much nailing. Those I know who only build villas never hand-nail large areas because of the strain, but as a novice, it's not so bad since it takes a while for a novice to clad an entire house.

The best-looking result is with hand-nailing, but if you set the pressure a little too loose on the nail gun and manually hammer in the last bit, it looks good with a nail gun as long as you find a nail with a nice head.

Yes, I re-clad a cabin I have. I hand-nailed the first gable end (then my shoulder was wrecked for 6 months 😂 Office rat that I am), after that I bought the gun, and set it as you said, so about 1 cm was left and manually tapped it in. Worked great, and what a massive difference in time taken.