Hello,
We live in a two-story stone house with a basement built in 1952. The house lacks blueprints (incorrect plans submitted to the Building Committee). Now we are going to remove the knee wall to convert dead space into living space. We had a structural engineer on site who instructed us to install a 90x270 laminated beam to support the area where the wall will disappear. He doesn't think the wall is load-bearing, but he supports it.
I now have a few questions: since the beam will be in a sloped ceiling, we lose extra headroom because the beam is so tall. Therefore, I'm considering the alternative of a steel beam HEA 140 instead.
I understand that the laminated beam is better from a fire safety perspective. But otherwise, how does it work with a steel beam? Can I "lay" it on two posts (90x90 laminated wood)? How to attach this longitudinally to the ceiling?
Where can I get a steel beam? Not at the building supply store, right? Is there another site to look for used items like this other than Blocket?
THANKS!
/frida
We live in a two-story stone house with a basement built in 1952. The house lacks blueprints (incorrect plans submitted to the Building Committee). Now we are going to remove the knee wall to convert dead space into living space. We had a structural engineer on site who instructed us to install a 90x270 laminated beam to support the area where the wall will disappear. He doesn't think the wall is load-bearing, but he supports it.
I now have a few questions: since the beam will be in a sloped ceiling, we lose extra headroom because the beam is so tall. Therefore, I'm considering the alternative of a steel beam HEA 140 instead.
I understand that the laminated beam is better from a fire safety perspective. But otherwise, how does it work with a steel beam? Can I "lay" it on two posts (90x90 laminated wood)? How to attach this longitudinally to the ceiling?
Where can I get a steel beam? Not at the building supply store, right? Is there another site to look for used items like this other than Blocket?
THANKS!
/frida
Can't you screw it in place?? Doesn't that work??
HEA sounds cool, not taking an IPE instead, well, that's your own choice.
You can attach the beam in the same place where the glulam was supposed to rest.
If you're worried about fire, you can encase it in double layers of drywall. And if you're going to install a beam, it's probably better to stand it up rather than lay it down, now I assume you mean standing, but it makes a huge difference.
There are hardware stores that sell steel too, IMAB in some places among others.
HEA sounds cool, not taking an IPE instead, well, that's your own choice.
You can attach the beam in the same place where the glulam was supposed to rest.
If you're worried about fire, you can encase it in double layers of drywall. And if you're going to install a beam, it's probably better to stand it up rather than lay it down, now I assume you mean standing, but it makes a huge difference.
There are hardware stores that sell steel too, IMAB in some places among others.
Haha, you are talking to a complete beginner at this.. 
First time I'm trying this kind of project somewhat on my own.
I'll look up what an IPE is then Is that what I should be looking for? Dimensions?
IMAB seems to only exist in southern Sweden?
First time I'm trying this kind of project somewhat on my own.
I'll look up what an IPE is then
Is that what I should be looking for? Dimensions?IMAB seems to only exist in southern Sweden?
An IPE has a slightly higher waist but is made from thinner material, I can imagine it being 120-140 high, check with the place where you purchase it.
Yes, it's possible that IMAB is only in the south, it's just here that I move around, but there is surely an equivalent further up in the country.
You've had an engineer on site who THINKS it's not load-bearing?? sounds a bit funky. It depends on what type of roof truss you have if it is part of the load-bearing structure or not. If you have a "Swedish roof truss" then it is load-bearing. (A Swedish roof truss is a type of roof truss, it doesn't mean it's made in Sweden)
The quick test is to put the saw into a support post when you've taken down the cladding and if the saw pinches, then it bears the load.
This is by no means a scientific test but it usually gives a hint at least.
I would have bridged it anyway, but it does depend a bit on how you carry out the intervention, you certainly don't want to cut open the hole and see the roof come down before you've got the beam in place....
Yes, it's possible that IMAB is only in the south, it's just here that I move around, but there is surely an equivalent further up in the country.
You've had an engineer on site who THINKS it's not load-bearing?? sounds a bit funky. It depends on what type of roof truss you have if it is part of the load-bearing structure or not. If you have a "Swedish roof truss" then it is load-bearing. (A Swedish roof truss is a type of roof truss, it doesn't mean it's made in Sweden
)The quick test is to put the saw into a support post when you've taken down the cladding and if the saw pinches, then it bears the load.
This is by no means a scientific test but it usually gives a hint at least.
I would have bridged it anyway, but it does depend a bit on how you carry out the intervention, you certainly don't want to cut open the hole and see the roof come down before you've got the beam in place....
Thanks for the tips!
The ENTIRE house is made of stone... (Except for the roof trusses...) The wall I'm tearing down has no studs, it consists of masonry blocks about 350x250x200 mm. So I've knocked it down with a sledgehammer, no saw has even needed to come upstairs. Both the engineer and architect have scratched their heads and never seen such a construction. As a layman, I would think all the weight rests on the exterior walls, but I guess it's so that the trusses don't get bent by snow load, etc., that the masonry walls have been there. They were built on site after the inner paneling on the roof was installed.
I need something that carries weight, but I'm considering steel to reduce the dimension. Now the stone/masonry is a bit tricky to attach to...
/f
The ENTIRE house is made of stone... (Except for the roof trusses...) The wall I'm tearing down has no studs, it consists of masonry blocks about 350x250x200 mm. So I've knocked it down with a sledgehammer, no saw has even needed to come upstairs. Both the engineer and architect have scratched their heads and never seen such a construction. As a layman, I would think all the weight rests on the exterior walls, but I guess it's so that the trusses don't get bent by snow load, etc., that the masonry walls have been there. They were built on site after the inner paneling on the roof was installed.
I need something that carries weight, but I'm considering steel to reduce the dimension. Now the stone/masonry is a bit tricky to attach to...
/f
Ask the designer to suggest a suitable steel beam and how it should be attached. In many cases, the attachment at the ends is a sensitive issue. There can be a very large load that was previously distributed over the entire load-bearing wall. There is a good chance that the designer can also advise on nearby companies that sell steel.
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· Västerbottens län
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Tibnorstål is available throughout the country, and has a warehouse in Köping.
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If it has been bricked as you say afterwards after the inner panel, it sounds strange if it was dimensioned as load-bearing from the start. Barely even supportive, which it indeed might have become over the years
It's not always the case that the outer walls take all the roof pressure, often load-bearing inner walls are used to carry it.
It's not always the case that the outer walls take all the roof pressure, often load-bearing inner walls are used to carry it.
There are often opinions that steel beams are inferior in terms of fire safety, but I believe that is exaggerated.
When a steel beam becomes so hot that it collapses, you have significantly bigger problems than that, the house is beyond rescue, and if there are any people or animals left inside, he/she/it is long dead.
I also know it's futile to try to convince a die-hard carpenter or some old firefighter about this, but as a mechanical engineer, I would never build anything load-bearing without using steel
When a steel beam becomes so hot that it collapses, you have significantly bigger problems than that, the house is beyond rescue, and if there are any people or animals left inside, he/she/it is long dead.
I also know it's futile to try to convince a die-hard carpenter or some old firefighter about this, but as a mechanical engineer, I would never build anything load-bearing without using steel