J
Hello
I've taken down old ceiling panels and am going to put up sparse 39cc.
The problem is that at the left wall there is nothing to attach the end of the sparse strips. There is only one roof truss.
What do I do here?

Attic corner with exposed insulation and a visible roof truss; wall without support for ceiling batten at left side. Ceiling with exposed insulation and a visible roof truss near a left wall, highlighting the difficulty of attaching battens without support. Exposed ceiling showing insulation and wiring, with visible roof trusses, where old panels have been removed for renovation work. Ceiling cavity with exposed insulation, electrical cable, and partial view of a truss near a wall. Blocks printed with "Gull" are visible.
 
You can place a nail fastening on top of the wall plate. For example, a 45x120 half outside as a fastening for the glesen.
 
J
R RoBo said:
You should place a spike mount on top of the sill plate. For example, a 45x120 halfway outside as a mount for the battens.
Then I have to lower the ceiling by 41 mm (batten 28 plus plasterboard 13). If I nail a 45x22 block on the rafters that the battens will be screwed into, then the bottom level of the battens will be flush with the sill plate. If the battens are 22 mm. The old ceiling panels continued over the sill plate and were nailed there, from below.
I could indeed do the same with the battens so that they extend above the sill plate and screw them down onto the plate. There are two problems, 1: I can't really reach it with the screwdriver 2: I have to use 22x70 batten instead of 28x70, which I prefer.
What do you think?
 
Is the wall 22 lower than the chairs?
 
J
R RoBo said:
Is wall 22 lower than the chairs?
22 x 2=44 mm lower than the chairs. The old ceiling panels were 22mm which were nailed to the chairs through batten pieces that were 45x22, the one marked with a red ring in the picture. The blue shows nails the old panels were attached to. They were nailed from below.


View attachment 316088


Ceiling showing insulation and wood panels with a red circle highlighting a batten and a blue circle indicating nails used for old panels.
 
Then you either need to raise the nail bracket on the wall or lay it on the chairs. Maybe it's best to first put a 45 on the top plate and then the nail bracket so you end up at the same level as the chairs. 1 mm won't be noticeable.
 
J
R RoBo said:
Then you either have to raise the nail support on the wall or add to the rafters. Perhaps it's best to first lay a 45 on the top plate and then the nail support so you end up on the same level as the rafters. A 1mm difference won't be noticeable.
If I place a 45x70 lath directly on the rafters, then it rests directly on the wall. Do you mean that I should nail it to a beam that I set opposite it? Or screw it down from above onto the beam that the electrical conduit goes through?
As you can see in the picture, the downside with the 45 is that the conduit is in the way. They get pinched; I'd rather use a 22mm block and 22 laths.

Ceiling construction with insulation and visible VP pipes causing installation challenges.
 
Screw from above. With an angled screwdriver, it's easiest. Otherwise, you might have to remove the insulation when doing this.
 
J
R RoBo said:
Screw from above. A right-angle screwdriver makes it easiest. Otherwise, you might have to remove the insulation when doing this.
Good tip, I remembered that I have such a right-angle screwdriver. Do you think it will be too weak with gled 22mm, or should I move the VP pipes and get the 45x70 gles there at any cost :-)
 
28x70 is usually what is used for gles.
 
Mikael_L
You reduce the images unnecessarily much, easier if we can zoom in a bit.

And surely you meant in the first post that the glesen should be attached with cc30?
 
Mikael_L
There are 12x50 läkt.

Then you can first install such läkt under the rafters, then put up 28x70 gles across the rafters.
And push the gles panel on top of the hammarbandet at the walls and fasten as best as you can.
The result will be a lower ceiling than before, it will be the thickness of the ceiling material lower.

Alternatively, you place 12x50 on top of the hammarbanden, and then do exactly the same but screw/nail the gles directly to the rafter, this way you gain 12 mm ceiling height compared to the previous version.
 
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J
Mikael_L Mikael_L said:
There are 12x50 battens.

You can install such battens first under the rafters, then install 28x70 crosswise over the rafters.
And slide the paneling over the wall plate at the walls and fasten it as best as you can.
The result will be a lower ceiling than before, reduced by the thickness of the ceiling material.

Alternatively, you place 12x50 on top of the wall plates, and then do just the same but screw/nail the crossbars directly to the rafter, then you gain 12 mm of ceiling height compared to the previous method.
The problem is the VP pipes that run crisscross under the rafters. They extend about 22mm. I can't place the crossbars directly on the rafters; otherwise, 45x70 would have worked just fine.
12x50 doesn't help since the VP pipes will be in the way.
I can't put whole battens on the rafters either because the VP pipes are in the way, except for 15cm pieces. I think 12x50 pieces will break when I screw into those short pieces.
 
Mikael_L
Surely you've thought about placing the glesen across the rafters?
 
J
Mikael_L Mikael_L said:
Sure, you plan to place the glesen across the rafters, right?
Yes, indeed, across cc30.
 
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