Self-leveling compound 50 sqm pine floor

[Arne999]

I am planning to level 50 sqm of pine floor this weekend. The floor is very uneven in some places... any tips on good/suitable self-leveling compound? I saw that Byggmax had 25kg bags for 169kr. Are these any good?

 

[Blecktrumman]

Yes, but if you're going to plaster such a large area, you'll probably need quite a few bags...........

 

[Pysslarn]

Are you planning to apply filler directly on the pine floor? That probably won't work very well...


/Ronnie

 

[Arne999]

Okay, why not? I have no good grasp on this...

 

[magnusss]

The wooden floor moves and then it cracks.

It's best to remove the old floor and then make sure the floor is level.

But if you're going to do this anyway:
Nail down fine mesh reinforcement and preferably use fiber-reinforced self-leveling compound.
Prime beforehand.

If the floor is very uneven, a lot of compound will be needed.

 

[Arne999]

Nah, I'm not going to do it unless it turns out well. I took for granted that it would work just fine

searched around a bit on the forum and found the following

It works great to self-level over "normal" wooden floors.
Here's how you do it:

Clear everything loose on the floor with a steel scraper or similar, additionally screw the floor down so it seems to be firm, vacuum and if it's lacquered, wash it with something.
Then use floor primer or (maxit Md16) in almost concentrated form, dilute with about ½ liter of water in 1 liter of primer and carefully brush it into the wooden floor that is to be leveled, I mean carefully! (this primer is very important!).
The primer prevents the floor from absorbing water from the self-leveling compound, increases adhesion, and binds the microscopic dust that is always present.

Then, depending on the material choice, you must always use fiber-reinforced leveling compound, fiber-reinforced leveling compound has a self-supporting thickness of 34mm, i.e. if you level to 34mm thick, it becomes a "new" floor that supports itself.
If you have a good floor, then 6mm over the heating loops is enough, i.e. if you have Thermotech 17mm then 23mm thickness is sufficient, i.e. 41 kg per sqm.

Mix in such a way that the compound doesn't get a "skin" between mixes. (Also very important!)

You could probably "glue" a durable aluminum foil to the primer to direct heat upwards or insulate from below to make the most of the underfloor heating going upwards, 95mm is suitable.

Best Regards, Jawen

 

[Arne999]

I'm thinking about whether I should lay some boards first but don't want to build too much height.... it's low ceiling as it is (210cm...)

Is there any point in laying a masonite board first (3.2mm from byggmax...) and then leveling with self-leveling compound. I should add that I'm planning to lay laminate or tarkett flooring or something similar.

 

[BigGitt]

TS. Can't you tear out / dismantle the floor, correct with plank and reinstall?

 

[mattiasp]

I have been in the same situation with an uneven floor. I considered filling it, but it didn't really feel like the right solution. Instead, I did this:

http://www.byggahus.se/forum/verkty...ngangs-elhyvel-projekt-furugolv-med-fris.html

 

[zankan]

you're running a fiberflow or similar 25 mm works perfectly.

 

[BigGitt]

I'm planning to level 50 sqm of pine flooring this weekend. The floor is very uneven in places... any tips on good/suitable leveling compound? I saw that Byggmax had 25kg bags for 169kr, are these any good?

If there are minor deviations (under 5mm), you can just rent a large floor sander and fix it with diagonal sanding in 3-4 hours using coarse sandpaper.

 

[Alpha]

I also leveled up my old 4"/6-7" tongue-and-groove wood floor after old settlements, etc. On top of this wood floor was a chipboard + mat that I tore off before laying a 22mm chipboard floor. The old chipboard was full of brads, a nail mat and the wood floor looked like it, unfortunately.

I chose the easy way because tearing up the tongue-and-groove wood floor would have been a difficult option, plus I wouldn't have been able to reuse it anyway.

I regret a little in hindsight that I didn't level up with a new 25-28mm wood floor instead of wasting money and time on both chipboard + finish floor... Oh well, it's done now anyway.

Good luck with your project TS

 

[Pysslarn]

The right way to go (at least as I have learned) is to both glue and screw floor gypsum onto the floor before you use self-leveling compound. It's about ensuring that the substrate is as stiff as possible.

Good luck, whatever you decide to do!
/Ronnie

 

[Arne999]

I have now talked to a flooring installer and he definitely advised against self-leveling the floor as it would certainly crack. Instead, he suggested 22mm floor chipboard directly on the existing floor.

 

[BigGitt]

Now I have talked to a flooring installer and he definitely advised against leveling the floor as it would certainly crack. Instead, he suggested 22mm floor chipboard directly on the existing floor.

I think that's smarter.