We have a storage space of approximately 20 sqm that we would like to convert into a room and are looking for some tips and advice. The storage space currently has an asphalt floor, and we are considering how to best insulate it to avoid future odors or problems that may arise. Currently, we are considering doing the following:
- Building plastic over the asphalt
- Construction polystyrene
- Concrete, lightweight concrete, or similar.
We are considering extending the building plastic 20-30 cm up the wall and then taping the transition between the plastic and the wall. The rest of the room will be made of wooden studs and plasterboard all around.
What do you think of this?
- Building plastic over the asphalt
- Construction polystyrene
- Concrete, lightweight concrete, or similar.
We are considering extending the building plastic 20-30 cm up the wall and then taping the transition between the plastic and the wall. The rest of the room will be made of wooden studs and plasterboard all around.
What do you think of this?
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· Västerbottens län
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Tear out the asphalt, it can be done with hand tools, heavy but doable. Replace the asphalt with insulation (building styrofoam).
Concrete doesn't sound fun in a "room"
Protte
Concrete doesn't sound fun in a "room"
Protte
I think it becomes quite tiresome to tear up the asphalt, as you have to dig quite deep to lay all the underlay before you're finished. The room already has walls and a roof and is essentially finished, except that it's asphalt since it was intended as storage for bicycles and other things.
Concrete, aerated concrete or other materials are not fun, but this is for the purpose of covering the styrofoam to later add hardwood flooring. So, in the end, the room will have a hardwood floor.
Concrete, aerated concrete or other materials are not fun, but this is for the purpose of covering the styrofoam to later add hardwood flooring. So, in the end, the room will have a hardwood floor.
The asphalt we had was about 2cm. First, it was cut with a diamond blade. Then a crowbar. About 5 hours for 25 sqm. The worst part was the cutting. Demolishing with a crowbar and using a plank as an aid was easy in my case. Consider this!
We have also considered removing the asphalt, or at least most of it, as we can't reach everything since there are already walls that we don't want/can't change. The storage is located between our house and the neighbor's house.
How much did you have to do with the foundation afterwards?
I don't know what it looks like at our place at all and I was a bit worried that I would need to dig down 30-50 cm to then start filling.
How much did you have to do with the foundation afterwards?
I don't know what it looks like at our place at all and I was a bit worried that I would need to dig down 30-50 cm to then start filling.
If you ask me, nothing more. It was in front of the garage. Replaced old asphalt with stone dust + paving stones. Keep in mind that asphalt is also laid on well-prepared ground. Therefore, I don't think you need to dig deep.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 024 posts
The asphalt in a storage is not thick, maybe 3-5 cm, and the base is usually solid for the asphalt to hold. Lay out plastic, insulation, and a floating wooden floor on it,
Protte
Protte
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 024 posts
#2 Tear out the asphalt.
And I stand by that, it serves no purpose, you're worried it might smell, and it allows for more insulation.
If the asphalt is bumpy/curved, the insulation will wobble, the gravel underneath can be dug.
But that's just one part, how does the wall look from bottom to top, inside and out.
Protte
And I stand by that, it serves no purpose, you're worried it might smell, and it allows for more insulation.
If the asphalt is bumpy/curved, the insulation will wobble, the gravel underneath can be dug.
But that's just one part, how does the wall look from bottom to top, inside and out.
Protte
This is what it looks like on site.
The long sides of the room, about 70% of it, are made of lightweight concrete. One side is against the neighbor's kitchen and the other side against our house. The remaining 30%, which is visible in the picture, is made of wood. This is because the storage itself sticks out from the house. The storage is divided in the middle, and the middle wall is intended to be moved to make the new room larger.
The base is made of asphalt, and as seen in the picture, the previous owner has insulated and put paneling around it, both on the ceiling and the floor.
We want to tear down the entire interior and start over. So my questions concern both the base and the walls. I am thinking about insulating the walls and considering whether it might be possible to use Styrofoam for insulation.
Please look at the pictures and feel free to offer tips and advice. I'm becoming more and more convinced about spending a few extra days removing the asphalt and gravel, setting down a new base, and building from there.
The long sides of the room, about 70% of it, are made of lightweight concrete. One side is against the neighbor's kitchen and the other side against our house. The remaining 30%, which is visible in the picture, is made of wood. This is because the storage itself sticks out from the house. The storage is divided in the middle, and the middle wall is intended to be moved to make the new room larger.
The base is made of asphalt, and as seen in the picture, the previous owner has insulated and put paneling around it, both on the ceiling and the floor.
We want to tear down the entire interior and start over. So my questions concern both the base and the walls. I am thinking about insulating the walls and considering whether it might be possible to use Styrofoam for insulation.
Please look at the pictures and feel free to offer tips and advice. I'm becoming more and more convinced about spending a few extra days removing the asphalt and gravel, setting down a new base, and building from there.
I am in the process of removing the asphalt and it is going much better than I thought. It is about 4 cm thick and can be removed with a crowbar.
My question concerns the next step:
We are going to have a click floor in the end, so my question is what base you suggest.
- Plastic on the gravel, insulation (styrofoam or regular roll insulation), and chipboard. This requires a lot of leveling to get the floor straight.
- Plastic on the gravel, insulation (styrofoam), and some form of lightweight concrete.
My question concerns the next step:
We are going to have a click floor in the end, so my question is what base you suggest.
- Plastic on the gravel, insulation (styrofoam or regular roll insulation), and chipboard. This requires a lot of leveling to get the floor straight.
- Plastic on the gravel, insulation (styrofoam), and some form of lightweight concrete.
I would choose styrofoam for insulation! Regular roll insulation, only if I had access from below! You can manage with 3-5 cm reinforced concrete. Just make sure it is dry, really dry before laying the floor. If you are laying laminate on concrete, the laminate should be protected from moisture with age-resistant plastic. To even out some of the concrete, foam. I would skip chipboard.
Someone might have other tips.
Someone might have other tips.
Thanks for the response kamilenski.
I am also considering that.
Gravel/stone dust, plastic, and polystyrene at 7-10 cm. On this, reinforced concrete 5 cm. Then plastic, floor foam and click flooring.
This should work well.
Considering isolating the rest with polystyrene as well and completely avoiding the yellow somewhat troublesome insulation.
I am also considering that.
Gravel/stone dust, plastic, and polystyrene at 7-10 cm. On this, reinforced concrete 5 cm. Then plastic, floor foam and click flooring.
This should work well.
Considering isolating the rest with polystyrene as well and completely avoiding the yellow somewhat troublesome insulation.
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