As mentioned: With a good glue joint, you avoid both squeaking and retightening.
Creak arises when the tread wants to flex while the rest of the staircase remains still. Immobil is on the right track, Knock is off track. Both suggest methods that work for a limited time.
To eliminate the cause of the creak, it is best to prevent the treads from flexing. Traditionally, this is done by having risers that are glued or screwed into the lower tread and set into a groove in the upper tread. The riser should be cambered so that it rests against the middle of the tread. Then it cannot move. Suspended at the back and supported at the front.
In your case, you can create strips about 30x70 and screw-glue them under the front edge of the treads/tread. This will make the treads flex less. In any case, it might be a good idea since it is inappropriate to have such large gaps between the treads as you have.
Regards, Findus
To eliminate the cause of the creak, it is best to prevent the treads from flexing. Traditionally, this is done by having risers that are glued or screwed into the lower tread and set into a groove in the upper tread. The riser should be cambered so that it rests against the middle of the tread. Then it cannot move. Suspended at the back and supported at the front.
In your case, you can create strips about 30x70 and screw-glue them under the front edge of the treads/tread. This will make the treads flex less. In any case, it might be a good idea since it is inappropriate to have such large gaps between the treads as you have.
Regards, Findus
But glue only holds for a limited time, says our guru Immobilfindus42 said:
That's why it sometimes creaks in old houses. Both might have been best.KnockOnWood said:
But glue only lasts for a limited time, says our guru Immobil
Knock.
If you quote the entire post, it might be interpreted as if you are trying to clarify something. I will still try to respond as if the question were serious.
Gluing long grain to end grain is a bad idea. Therefore, a tenon in a stringer from a step that flexes will eventually come loose. Possibly resulting in the creaking being even worse than it was before.
Gluing along the fibers holds long enough.
Screws don't hold either for the same reason. Perhaps if there is a stringer pin in the step and it's possible to have an Allen or regular screw that can be retightened.
Wood screws can also be retightened but only a few times.
The major misconception with glue in TS's case according to Knock's suggestion is that he has to tear down the entire staircase to get glue into the mortise holes. Maybe he imagines he will cook bone glue from a chicken carcass and use the Sylven method.
Drill small holes and inject the paste with high pressure. A bit too obscure even for true old-method fanatics.
Anyway, this does not solve the problem of the step flexing. Any approach that doesn't consider the cause of the creaking can only work temporarily.
Regards, Findus
If you quote the entire post, it might be interpreted as if you are trying to clarify something. I will still try to respond as if the question were serious.
Gluing long grain to end grain is a bad idea. Therefore, a tenon in a stringer from a step that flexes will eventually come loose. Possibly resulting in the creaking being even worse than it was before.
Gluing along the fibers holds long enough.
Screws don't hold either for the same reason. Perhaps if there is a stringer pin in the step and it's possible to have an Allen or regular screw that can be retightened.
Wood screws can also be retightened but only a few times.
The major misconception with glue in TS's case according to Knock's suggestion is that he has to tear down the entire staircase to get glue into the mortise holes. Maybe he imagines he will cook bone glue from a chicken carcass and use the Sylven method.
Drill small holes and inject the paste with high pressure. A bit too obscure even for true old-method fanatics.
Anyway, this does not solve the problem of the step flexing. Any approach that doesn't consider the cause of the creaking can only work temporarily.
Regards, Findus
Knarr is a slip-stick phenomenon. Sometimes it is the tread step that slips in the groove in the frame step, and sometimes it is the top and bottom of the frame step that slip in the slots in the vangstycket. Considering that the frame steps bend through the neutral plane under load, the top side will become shorter and the bottom side longer. I would approach the problem by addressing the slip-stick phenomenon, for example by multimastring in the vangstycket and trying to insert a shim of UHMWPE or polyamide. Start with the underside and see if the knarr disappears.
We have an exactly similar staircase and from your picture, it seems you've done exactly what we did: that is, removed the "balustrade" on the outer stringer.P-plats said:
With us, the inner stringer is screwed to the wall, the staircase is loose on the floor, and the previous balustrade locked the outer stringer and thereby held the plate in place. Nothing creaked.
Since we removed the balustrade, the staircase can move, and in fact, my wife almost killed herself once when she was going up the stairs and two steps came loose. (She fell forward, into the staircase, but if she had been going down instead, she would probably have fallen and seriously injured herself.) The steps were able to slip out of their tracks because the stringers had slightly separated. I recommend you check the steps, in other words.
And now it creaks.
As long as the entire staircase can move, one will surely have problems with creaking, and glue is not enough to counteract the movements. If one were to get glue into the tracks for the steps in the stringers, the staircase's movements would cause the wood in the steps and stringers to break instead. Suddenly, you have a bigger problem than before and probably need a new staircase.
Screws are not a long-term solution either; the movements will damage the wood where they are fastened, and you are back to square one. Probably without having wrecked the staircase though...
If it is as I think, the entire staircase must be fixed first, then one can start working on potential movements in the steps.
//Ronnie
Nonsense! Most manufacturers advise against using glue. Quote from Snickarlaget:
"During assembly, no glue or sealant should be used. This may cause future problems with
noise in the stairs. We recommend always pre-drilling before screwing to avoid cracking."
As you write, the railing has been removed, but the creaking was already there before.P Pysslarn said:
The outer stringer is fixed to the floor since we've added a layer of floor chipboard over the entire old plank floor that the staircase stands on and filled it with sealant.
Anyway, I'll keep an eye out to make sure the staircase doesn't separate in any way, thanks for the tip.
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· Etelä Pohjanmaa
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Why shouldn't it creak? Old stairs creak.
It would be interesting to have some rational arguments instead of carpenters' opinions.Immobil said:
Surely you must realize that a fully glued construction does not creak,
because the components are completely fixed in relation to each other.
Right?
The only (and best) way is apparently to do what we did when we built new almost eight years ago: Build one-story!
For me, however, Immobil is the forum's staircase guru. Perhaps because of all the help I got when I was fixing our staircase.
But you had worked with staircases for a period in your life, if I recall correctly.
And findus42 seems to have dealt with most things that contain the word "wood," so ...
But you had worked with staircases for a period in your life, if I recall correctly.
And findus42 seems to have dealt with most things that contain the word "wood," so ...