I'm going to attempt to create an impossible window surround where I need to build the surround down at the top because the window is above the ceiling. The window is a cassette window L300 H30. It will really be a challenge since it's an amateur-built wooden house that's been standing for 50 years. There are some settlements and the angles are not always 90 degrees.
I'm going to roll up my sleeves and do my best, but I'm already convinced that there will be some gaps when I put the surround together. I can't make a box that I then put in place; I have to mount each piece against the studs individually.
How do I seal the gaps between the pieces to prevent cracks as much as possible?
1) some form of flexible sealant?
2) wood filler?
3) some kind of flexible wood sealant?
4) any other method for the gaps?
I'm going to roll up my sleeves and do my best, but I'm already convinced that there will be some gaps when I put the surround together. I can't make a box that I then put in place; I have to mount each piece against the studs individually.
How do I seal the gaps between the pieces to prevent cracks as much as possible?
1) some form of flexible sealant?
2) wood filler?
3) some kind of flexible wood sealant?
4) any other method for the gaps?
The first and best tip is to minimize gaps as much as possible.
The second tip is to make the molding from a more stable material than solid wood. MDF or finer plywood, for example. These materials move less than solid wood, and your sealed gap has a better chance of surviving the seasonal changes in humidity.
The third tip is to seal with an MS polymer sealant. I've had good experiences with Tec-7.
The second tip is to make the molding from a more stable material than solid wood. MDF or finer plywood, for example. These materials move less than solid wood, and your sealed gap has a better chance of surviving the seasonal changes in humidity.
The third tip is to seal with an MS polymer sealant. I've had good experiences with Tec-7.
Thanks!
unfortunately, the end grain is visible and then it doesn't look so nice with MDF, right?
I'm going to paint the pieces
unfortunately, the end grain is visible and then it doesn't look so nice with MDF, right?
I'm going to paint the pieces
If by end grain you mean the cut surfaces on MDF, it's absolutely possible to achieve a good finish after painting. Prime several times with primer and sand in between for a good result. Do 3 primings and really saturate the end.D Derbyboy said: