Building new and wondering a bit about how a bathroom wall that is against the outer wall should look.
Read that some put plastic just like usual over the entire outer wall, but for the section where the bathroom is, they make lots of small holes in the plastic so any moisture can escape.
The bathroom is in the middle of one of the long sides of the house.
Others seem to go with the old black construction paper just at the bathroom.
What is most correct right now?
Then I'm wondering about the construction of a wall inside the bathroom that will separate the shower from the bathtub. It protrudes 1m from the wall and will have tiles on both sides and go up to the ceiling.
Will it be sturdy with
15 tile
0.2 waterproofing layer
12.5 gypsum
15 plywood
45 stud
15 plywood
12.5 gypsum
0.2 waterproofing layer
15 tile
Or do I need to go up to 75 stud?
There will be a mixer in the wall, but I assume that can be accommodated in a 45 stud?
Read that some put plastic just like usual over the entire outer wall, but for the section where the bathroom is, they make lots of small holes in the plastic so any moisture can escape.
The bathroom is in the middle of one of the long sides of the house.
Others seem to go with the old black construction paper just at the bathroom.
What is most correct right now?
Then I'm wondering about the construction of a wall inside the bathroom that will separate the shower from the bathtub. It protrudes 1m from the wall and will have tiles on both sides and go up to the ceiling.
Will it be sturdy with
15 tile
0.2 waterproofing layer
12.5 gypsum
15 plywood
45 stud
15 plywood
12.5 gypsum
0.2 waterproofing layer
15 tile
Or do I need to go up to 75 stud?
There will be a mixer in the wall, but I assume that can be accommodated in a 45 stud?
One should try to avoid double moisture barriers. In your case, I'm not quite sure how to actually do it. Will both sides be exposed to water?
In the outer wall, you should also consider the moisture barrier. I believe the entire wall is usually treated as zone 1 if a part of the outer wall ends up there. This means moisture barriers behind the tiles on the entire wall. Some build this with the same wall construction as in the rest of the house with the usual moisture barrier inside the installation layer. This risks causing problems. It has been shown that some moisture barriers have very moisture-dependent vapor transmission resistance. This means they allow more moisture to pass through when they are wet. Moisture then migrates into the installation layer and remains there without a chance to dry out, resulting in damage.
In the outer wall, you should also consider the moisture barrier. I believe the entire wall is usually treated as zone 1 if a part of the outer wall ends up there. This means moisture barriers behind the tiles on the entire wall. Some build this with the same wall construction as in the rest of the house with the usual moisture barrier inside the installation layer. This risks causing problems. It has been shown that some moisture barriers have very moisture-dependent vapor transmission resistance. This means they allow more moisture to pass through when they are wet. Moisture then migrates into the installation layer and remains there without a chance to dry out, resulting in damage.
I built a wall similar to what you describe using LUX tiles. Very simple as you don't have to mess around with multiple barriers back and forth because this was built after the barrier. Check in here for some pictures: http://byggarna.bloggas.nu/
I just built such a partition wall at 1m. I built with 70x45 studs "on the flat" then single plasterboard (yes, I used regular cardboard plasterboard in the shower) on each side and waterproofing/tiles.
I perceived that wall as very stable despite not using plywood and even though it was only about 90mm thick tiled and finished.
I perceived that wall as very stable despite not using plywood and even though it was only about 90mm thick tiled and finished.
Nice build!souba said:
I’m going to make a similar fireplace like yours too.
What else are they called and who is the manufacturer of the LUX panels? I searched a bit for LUX but couldn’t find the manufacturer or more about the properties.
One side next to the bathtub, the other next to the shower.Locke said:
As exposed as it can be
How is this usually solved with the outer wall? Put plastic like the other walls and make some small holes in it so moisture can escape?
Thank you, I can take a picture this weekend now that it's finished. You generally don't want to mix in a lot of wood in a bathroom, so this was the best option that all the tile gods used, they said. Available for purchase at your tile shop, for example, Colorama.Suhagg said:
Info about the boards can be found here: http://www.luxelements.de/lux_sweden/programm/element/bauplatte-vorgeschlitzt.htm
Nice that more stoves are going to be built, I can arrange a picture of it too now that it is all done
Nice. I should read up more on it. Expensive, I assume?souba said:Thanks, I can take a picture this weekend now that it's done. Ideally, you don't want to include a lot of wood in a bathroom, so this was the best alternative that all the tile gods used, they said. Available for purchase at your tile store, e.g., Colorama. Info about the boards can be found here: [link]
Nice that more stoves are being built, I can arrange a picture of it too now that it's completely done
I need two walls that are 1m wide x 3m high. But I guess I still need a wood frame or should I opt for metal studs? It should divide between the shower and the tiled-in bathtub, as well as between the shower and the toilet.
Planning to build my chimney with chimney blocks and then plaster them. I saw that you built leca and then a regular premodul in metal internally. Why did you choose that? I think it's nice with a more chimney-like version like you did, though. Do you have a water-jacketed stove? I was thinking of investing in that and charging a storage tank to actually benefit from the heat instead of going from 22 degrees inside to 26 as soon as you start a fire
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The thing with luxskivorna is that you don't need wooden and metal studs. You glue the luxskivorna with a special adhesive and also use them as noggins. I must admit, I was a bit skeptical when they were gluing it, whether it would really hold, but damn, what glue!!! And when you then tile and grout, it really becomes a rock-hard wall! You can easily cut the luxskivorna with a utility knife (like gypsum) or saw them. As an amateur, I used a circular saw to get straight but fine cutting edges.
The boards cost about 400:- (for 20mm, which they recommended, available in 6,10,20,30,50 etc.) 240*60 are the dimensions. A tube of adhesive cost about the same, but the glue was quite long-lasting, and I now use it for everything:-D
The reason I used leca and a premodul or NVI chimney in this case was for two reasons.
The first was because it is a convection fireplace. There's a metal casing around it so most of the heat comes out from the front and not around it like a "regular fireplace." I myself was considering a water-jacketed fireplace but quickly dismissed that idea because you need a really large storage tank to make use of such. And I use geothermal heating, so it was more or less a waste of money on a water-jacketed one since I would have to extinguish the fire after 1 hour
The chimney was chosen because it was very convenient and the cheapest option you can find. Chimney blocks are more expensive plus a lot more work. The leca is very easy to work with and cheap
What could have been done differently was to invest in an uninsulated part closest to the fireplace so you could take advantage of more of the flue gas heat, but the leca is probably not the best from a heat storage point of view; in that case, maybe one should have built with red brick or bought a lot of soapstone and thrown it in
phew.. that became a lot.. Feel free to ask if I have been unclear in any way
The boards cost about 400:- (for 20mm, which they recommended, available in 6,10,20,30,50 etc.) 240*60 are the dimensions. A tube of adhesive cost about the same, but the glue was quite long-lasting, and I now use it for everything:-D
The reason I used leca and a premodul or NVI chimney in this case was for two reasons.
The first was because it is a convection fireplace. There's a metal casing around it so most of the heat comes out from the front and not around it like a "regular fireplace." I myself was considering a water-jacketed fireplace but quickly dismissed that idea because you need a really large storage tank to make use of such. And I use geothermal heating, so it was more or less a waste of money on a water-jacketed one since I would have to extinguish the fire after 1 hour
The chimney was chosen because it was very convenient and the cheapest option you can find. Chimney blocks are more expensive plus a lot more work. The leca is very easy to work with and cheap
What could have been done differently was to invest in an uninsulated part closest to the fireplace so you could take advantage of more of the flue gas heat, but the leca is probably not the best from a heat storage point of view; in that case, maybe one should have built with red brick or bought a lot of soapstone and thrown it in
phew.. that became a lot.. Feel free to ask if I have been unclear in any way
Suhagg said:Nice. I'll read more about it. Expensive, I assume?
I will have 2 walls that are 1m wide x 3m high. But I assume I still need a wooden stud frame in it or should I opt for metal studs? It will separate between the shower and the tiled bathtub and between the shower and toilet.
I’m planning to build my chimney with chimney blocks and then plaster them. I saw that you built with leca and then a regular premodul in metal inside. How come you chose that? I think it looks nice with a more chimney-like variant like you've done though. Do you have a water-jacketed fireplace? I was thinking of going for that and charging a storage tank to make use of the heat instead of going from 22 degrees indoors to 26 as soon as you make a fire
[bild]
Here I found a description of a shower wall http://www.luxelements.de/lux_sweden/praxis/gerade-bauplatten/trennwand.htm
http://www.luxelements.de/lux_sweden/praxis/gerade-bauplatten/trennwand.htmThank you! Well explained and it's appreciated to hear others' opinions, so I don't have to reinvent the wheel again
LUX
Seems really convenient. I'm going to build in the bathtub too, and these boards seem to be what I should definitely use.
I'll be running water to the mixer for the bathtub in one of these walls, so I assume I need some thickness and empty space in it.
Then I should probably make a wall with, let's say, 20mm and then a gap of about 40mm (where I can run water and install 90-degree bends to the mixer) and then a 20mm board again. Then it's just a matter of tiling all this into a single tile + 80mm + tile thick wall. No waterproofing is needed when it's inside a bathroom where everything is already sealed, I assume?
Regarding the chimney.
I think it would be nice to utilize the heat, and I will have a heat pump in the garage a bit away, and there's room for a 500-750l accumulator tank, hence I became curious about taking advantage of the heat. A water-jacketed one isn't particularly expensive, but then I would need an accumulator tank, some controls, and plumbing help, so it might be difficult to justify it in a newly built, well-insulated house today. I'll only be burning for the coziness, though. I have about 4m height to the ridge, so it might not be a bad idea to do as you have done to get a good feeling of a real chimney stack, and it's cheap and easy to do yourself. By "uninsulated part," do you mean having a chimney pipe without insulation to get more heat distribution close to the stove?
LUX
Seems really convenient. I'm going to build in the bathtub too, and these boards seem to be what I should definitely use.
I'll be running water to the mixer for the bathtub in one of these walls, so I assume I need some thickness and empty space in it.
Then I should probably make a wall with, let's say, 20mm and then a gap of about 40mm (where I can run water and install 90-degree bends to the mixer) and then a 20mm board again. Then it's just a matter of tiling all this into a single tile + 80mm + tile thick wall. No waterproofing is needed when it's inside a bathroom where everything is already sealed, I assume?
Regarding the chimney.
I think it would be nice to utilize the heat, and I will have a heat pump in the garage a bit away, and there's room for a 500-750l accumulator tank, hence I became curious about taking advantage of the heat. A water-jacketed one isn't particularly expensive, but then I would need an accumulator tank, some controls, and plumbing help, so it might be difficult to justify it in a newly built, well-insulated house today. I'll only be burning for the coziness, though. I have about 4m height to the ridge, so it might not be a bad idea to do as you have done to get a good feeling of a real chimney stack, and it's cheap and easy to do yourself. By "uninsulated part," do you mean having a chimney pipe without insulation to get more heat distribution close to the stove?
The Lux panels are carefully aligned by themselves. So if you have your bathroom with four walls aligned according to all the current rules, you can build however and whatever you want with these panels I laid the floor first before building up my walls in case you want to change something in the future, so it stands on tiles and you don't need to redo alignment if you, for example, want to replace a built-in toilet in my case
It's probably a good gap to connect some water
We have the same thinking with the stove for coziness, which is a bit why we also chose not to go with a water-jacketed one. If I had bought one like that, I could have skipped geothermal heating, but then you would have had to light a fire;-)
Exactly, so you utilize some radiant heat from the stove and flue gases against the leca in this case, although I don't know how much you would feel this heat.
I laid the floor first before building up my walls in case you want to change something in the future, so it stands on tiles and you don't need to redo alignment if you, for example, want to replace a built-in toilet in my caseIt's probably a good gap to connect some water
We have the same thinking with the stove for coziness, which is a bit why we also chose not to go with a water-jacketed one. If I had bought one like that, I could have skipped geothermal heating, but then you would have had to light a fire;-)
Exactly, so you utilize some radiant heat from the stove and flue gases against the leca in this case, although I don't know how much you would feel this heat.
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Thanks! I'll ask for the boards when it's time.souba said:The Lux boards are already waterproof. So if you have your bathroom with four walls waterproofed according to all the rules of today, you can build however and whatever you want with these boards
It's probably a good gap to be able to connect some water
We have the same thought with the stove for coziness, which is also why we chose not to go for water-jacketed. If I had bought one, I could have skipped geothermal, but then one would have to keep burning;-)
Exactly, so you utilize a little radiant heat from the stove and exhaust gases against the Lecas in this case, although I'm not sure how much of this heat would be felt.
I'm not going to burn for the sake of heating, but it feels unnecessary not to fully use the opportunity.
Then one day, if you want to burn more because electricity is outrageously expensive, then it's probably quite nice with waterborne.
It's not something you can do afterward directly.
The stove is ready, just the grates need to be put in after the chimney sweep has been at work
True that you don't repeat that! And a waterborne system is indeed smart! I wonder if there's a stove where you can bypass the water, that would be a good idea so you could burn without having to extinguish when the water temperature gets too high
True that you don't repeat that! And a waterborne system is indeed smart! I wonder if there's a stove where you can bypass the water, that would be a good idea so you could burn without having to extinguish when the water temperature gets too high
