No problems at all:
Outer panel Z-panel 22x120
Air gap 28mm (28x70 vertical sparse panel)
Exterior gypsum 9 mm
Horizontal studs 45x45 + 45 mm Gullfiber insulation
Vertical studs 220x45 + 220 mm Gullfiber insulation
Vapor barrier plastic film 0.2 mm
Vertical studs 45x45 + 45 mm Gullfiber insulation
Horizontal wood panel 18 x190 mm, (alternatively 1 or 2 x 13 mm gypsum in the kitchen and wet rooms).
I have no idea how "approved" this is. No proper energy calculations have been made, either before or after the construction.
But the house "consumes" about 4,800 kWh/year including heating, hot water, ventilation, and household electricity as well as some heating and hot water in the stable. And sometimes heating in the guest room in the attic.
thank you so much, now I have tried to draw according to your description and wonder if it turned out right. I started from the left. sorry if I am bothering you so much.
what did you think of my detail I did, did everything match? feels wrong
Yes, it was great!
But you risk attacks from the "PC-group" who want OSB + plasterboard in all walls towards the living areas.
But I think subjectively that using outdoor plasterboard instead of some kind of weatherproof fabric is very good!
It stabilizes the frame, so hopefully, you avoid something like this (after storm Gorm):
I don't buy that claim. Thermal bridges don't impact as much as 30%. Someone did calculations on this in another thread and I recall that there was a very small difference, about 5%.
The frame is stabilized by the panels on the inside as well, but before these are in place, you should have some support.
The thermal bridges plus you get much more insulation when you have lightweight beams. My studs are only 8mm thick instead of 45mm. With cc60, you get about 90cm more insulation on a house with a 12m long side. Additionally, the baseplate is made of lightweight beams so the entire baseplate is insulated against the slab.
Even though it's not the amount of insulation that matters, it's the thickness and the lambda value. A wooden stud also insulates but not as well, of course. There's a difference, but I claim it's not that dramatic.
Light frame is a really good construction that is easy to build and adapt. I will build a light frame house with cellulose myself.
The best insulation is probably achieved with two completely separated walls. That's how I would probably build if I constructed it myself with loose timber. An outer load-bearing 45x120 and then an inner interior wall, the space in between filled with loose fill from the attic.
But now the question from the original poster was that he wanted a thinner wall. And all else being equal, this wall has a better U-value than a traditionally built one of the same thickness. There is, for example, about 6 times more wood in a traditional construction than in one with light beams. Wood has a U-value of about 0.14 compared to cellulose, which is about 0.038. Additionally, loose fill insulation is packed into every little nook, so no convection occurs in the wall, which further increases efficiency.
As you thought, I have built the roof (the trusses are also made of light beams) together with the outer wall, so there are absolutely 0 cold bridges in the entire construction. The most annoying part is that you're forced to have windows; otherwise, everything would be quite well insulated.
The layers in the wall from the outside are
21mm window trim
21mm panel
25mm horizontal batten
25mm vertical batten
6mm exterior gypsum
170mm vertical stud/insulation
Vapor barrier
45mm horizontal stud/insulation
11mm OSB
13mm gypsum
U-value is 0.16/m2
The plastic goes right up to the inside of the window. There was a special strip to splice the plastic with to make it reach.
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