I join the crowd and also think OSB works excellently. Regular wood screws, right length, impact driver. Never any problems!
More control when using an impact driver.
It hits less hard when you press the button less, at least my Makita does.
If you're using a regular screwdriver and it gets tough, you might accelerate, risking damaging the wood fibers when you reach the end, i.e., you don't stop in time.
And if you find it difficult, you can screw in 95% with the driver and finish the last bit by hand.
And finally, if you don't trust the attachment, it's perfectly fine to install a molly in gypsum+osb as well.
Just buy a molly plug for double layers.
Then you can really talk about being able to load it afterwards.
It hits less hard when you press the button less, at least my Makita does.
If you're using a regular screwdriver and it gets tough, you might accelerate, risking damaging the wood fibers when you reach the end, i.e., you don't stop in time.
And if you find it difficult, you can screw in 95% with the driver and finish the last bit by hand.
And finally, if you don't trust the attachment, it's perfectly fine to install a molly in gypsum+osb as well.
Just buy a molly plug for double layers.
Then you can really talk about being able to load it afterwards.
But that some fail to screw into OSB is not because of too short screws, i.e., the part that goes through the OSB should be threaded and equally thick throughout. A screw is usually not pulled straight out but downwards, and then the back part of the screw upwards, but with the right screw, it should have the effect of biting into the material.
No particular benefit, just a matter of habit. As JOW writes, I think you get a better feel with the impact driver for how tight you're fastening. I also use it to screw drywall, probably not something people advocate, but I think it works well.Andy78 said:
Regarding screw length, too long screws aren't good either. It simply needs to be adapted to have full threading in the OSB board.
Many screws have no threads next to the head. If that part is longer than the thickness of what you're screwing up plus the thickness of the plasterboard, the screw is too long. There should be threads through the entire OSB.Andy78 said:
The screw must also not be so long that it protrudes through the OSB, even if there are threads the whole way. The screw will damage the hole in the OSB the more you screw. Even if the hole becomes slightly too large, it can be enough for the screw's threads not to bite.
Choose a screw that is just over the length of OSB+plaster+what you are screwing up. Choose one as thick as you can with that length.
...and as everyone has said, take it easy with the screwdriver.
I can add that I have a box of wood screws 5x30 that I've used in cases where the material I've screwed up is not that thick.
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My experience is that drywall screws (fully threaded) can lose their grip and rotate in OSB when screwing up drywall. In my latest construction, I use 12mm particle board of good quality, I have never managed to make a drywall screw lose grip in particle board, and I am not the least bit worried about hanging up kitchens, TVs, or shelves.
Stupid question but don't you attach the drywall to the studs even if you have OSB behind?? That's what I have done at least... the drywall screw isn't particularly coarse, what I've used for double mounting I recall was 3.5 for metal studs or 3.9 for wooden studs.
There are two things I see that impact this;ZipLock said:
* OSB works best where you have a plasterboard in front. If you screw in without pre-drilling, the plasterboard holds against the wood material in the OSB so it doesn't push outwards, which it does if you only screw into an OSB piece.
Without the plasterboard, there's a bit of a drill effect from the screw.
* And when you're putting things up or fastening them, I always pre-drill, which makes the screw grip directly in the material. Self-drilling screws are good, but not as good as pre-drilling. Pre-drilling seems almost like a forgotten technique
. So try pre-drilling when you use 4mm screws. A machine with a drill and one for bits because you have to use your machines All the retailers I’ve visited, from Byggmax to Beijer, sell class 3, but the quality can certainly vary from one supplier to another. The most important thing is to check how the boards are stored (and this applies to all lumber). The drier and more protected, the better. Say what you will about Bauhaus, but much of their board material is stored indoors in warmth unlike, for example, Byggmax where it is stored under a roof outdoors.JOW said:
In the tests I have read, there was as much difference between a good/bad board as between Particle board/OSB
So a good particle board is better than a bad OSB...
A good particle board was also not far from a plywood (can't remember what type of plywood it was)
-So I'm going with particle board, but I will use anchors where I will hang heavier items, cabinets, or similar.
So a good particle board is better than a bad OSB...
A good particle board was also not far from a plywood (can't remember what type of plywood it was)
-So I'm going with particle board, but I will use anchors where I will hang heavier items, cabinets, or similar.
jtl: ok
Another detail, a particle board is basically homogeneous as it is small particles that are glued together and pressed.
An OSB is large particles that are pressed together, thus it can vary greatly between different areas on the same OSB board, depending on the random quality of the individual particles.
Or can and cannot, I know that's the case, you can feel it when you screw that it varies in heaviness/toughness.
Another detail, a particle board is basically homogeneous as it is small particles that are glued together and pressed.
An OSB is large particles that are pressed together, thus it can vary greatly between different areas on the same OSB board, depending on the random quality of the individual particles.
Or can and cannot, I know that's the case, you can feel it when you screw that it varies in heaviness/toughness.