One of the measures recommended against ground radon is to seal cracks in the floor and walls in the basement. Our basement is from the 1930s and currently, moisture is coming in through both the floor and walls. Does this mean that radon gas will also migrate through the concrete no matter how much we seal the cracks? Can the gas even travel with the water?
 
Normal concrete is not gas-tight, so radon seeps through even if there are no cracks. That is why a plastic film is always placed under a concrete slab that is cast today.
 
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mrsnhp
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But less ground radon will come in if the cracks are sealed.
 
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useless useless said:
Normal concrete is not gas-tight, so radon seeps through even if there are no cracks. That's why a plastic film is always placed under a concrete slab that is being cast today.
Darn. Then we have to hope it can be fixed with a radon extractor.
 
Radon goes through concrete, but slower than through, for example, gravel.
It is a gas that rises and chooses the easiest path.
Thus, when you seal the cracks in your floor, more will seep outside the house and less will come indoors.
 
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mrsnhp mrsnhp said:
Darn. Then let's hope it can be resolved with a radon fan.
Even with a radon fan, you want to seal the gaps, so it's not wasted work.
Then measure and see if it was enough or not.
You will definitely notice a significant difference if you seal all the gaps properly, whether it's sufficient or not depends on too many variables to predict. :)
 
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Dowser4711 Dowser4711 said:
Even with a radon pump, you want to seal the gaps, so it's not work wasted.
Then measure and see if it was enough or not.
You will definitely notice a noticeable difference if you seal all the gaps properly, whether it is enough or not depends on too many variables to predict. :)
Yes, the remediation will probably be a step-by-step process with a combination of measures, including when we replace the sewage pipes and re-drain 🙂 We haven't talked to anyone who works with this kind of thing yet, and I want to know what's on the menu before some guy comes along and confidently talks about how their expensive method is the only best solution. I don't even know if it's worth bringing anyone in before it's time to re-drain, which we would like to wait with until 2027 so that we can focus on the living room and hallway calmly first.
 
H
mrsnhp mrsnhp said:
Yes, the remediation will probably be a step-by-step process with a combination of measures, including in connection with us replacing sewage pipes and redoing drainage 🙂 We haven't talked to anyone who works with this kind of thing yet, and I want to know what options are available before some guy comes and confidently talks about how their expensive method is the only best solution. I don't even know if it's worth bringing someone in before it's time to redo the drainage, which we would preferably like to postpone until 2027 so we can focus on the living room and hallway first in peace.
Make sure pipe penetrations are sealed.
 
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H HEM2121 said:
Make sure that pipe penetrations are sealed.
Thanks for the reminder! We don't have any pipe penetrations in the basement floor, but we should seal the ones coming up from the basement. What should we use to seal them with?
 
mrsnhp mrsnhp said:
in connection with us replacing sewer pipes and re-draining
Then you should think a little, in connection with maybe breaking up the basement floor, install a 110 mm drain pipe as a fan together with the sewer. Connect and pull it up through the floor somewhere.
It should be a 110 mm pipe up about 0.5 meters and then connect further into the sky. There are fans that fit directly into 110. If you know there is ground radon, you can use drainage hoses with a fan attached, which draws on the outside of the foundation. Not many plumbers know how to do it, so research further on the implementation.
I do know how to do it and others do too.
 
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J jonaserik said:
Then you should think a bit, when you might be tearing up the floor in the basement, install a 110 mm drainage pipe like a fan along with the drainage. Connect it and run it up through the floor at some point.
It should be a 110 mm pipe up about 0.5 meters and then connect it further into the air. There are fans that fit directly in 110. If you know it's soil radon, you can use drainage hoses with a fan, that pulls from the outside of the foundation. Not many plumbers know how to do it, so research further on the execution.
I know at least how to do it and others too.
Thank you! How large/wide basements can be vacuumed from the drainage on the outside? Or does it entirely depend on the conditions? Do you have to decide on this method already when doing the drainage, or can it be added afterward if we notice that radon suction under the floor doesn't give enough effect? We will probably drain before we change the piping.

There are reports from an investigation stating there is no blåbetong, and the municipality says there is soil radon almost everywhere, so it is most likely soil radon.
 
The technique of extracting from drainage is an excellent way to reduce ground radon. Not 100%, but usually 80. It needs to be carefully planned, along with the drainage. It’s not just about installing a fan; you need a collection well with a water trap for the outlet, otherwise there will be no vacuum. The downspouts should not connect to the same well. I drew a simple sketch of this for BH a long time ago; I’ll see if I still have it or perhaps need to create a new one.
 
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Concrete is classified as radon-proof if it is cast to be watertight. Correct Vct and thickness
 
H
mrsnhp mrsnhp said:
Thanks for the reminder! We don't have any pipe penetrations in the basement floor, but we should seal the pipe penetrations coming up from the basement. What should we seal with?
There are special seals for that and how it should be done, construction companies probably have an idea of what is best in your case, land and environment, the county board, probably also have an idea. There's probably someone on the forum who knows as well. Google sealing radon pipe penetration.
 
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J jonaserik said:
Det med att suga från dräneringen, är ett utmärkt sätt att få bort markradon. Inte 100 % men 80 brukar det vara. Måste projekteras noga, tillsammans med dräneringen. Det är inte bara att sätta en fläkt, det ska till en samlingsbrunn som har vattenlås för utfarten, annars blir det inget vackum. Sen får inte stuprören gå till samma brun. Har ritat enkel skiss tidigare om detta till BH , för länge sedan, ska se om jag har den kvar eller kanske behöver göra en ny.
Hej! Gammal tråd med kanske kan få lite svar ändå. Funkar det med radonsug under en platta från 70-talet? Har inte alt dränmaterial satt igen vid det här laget att en radonsug inte kommer kunna dra ut nån radonluft eftersom det kanske bara är geggamoja i dräneringsmateralet?
 
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