Sitting and planning a new entrance/front porch/veranda. The house is 22 meters long and I'm thinking of a veranda from corner to past the second window, i.e., 10-11m long and with a depth of 2m. The roofing will be older model sheet metal. The same as on the house roof. Can anyone please help me with the correct dimensions for the timber for the roof construction and posts? Tried using byggbeskrivningar.se which hasn't worked. We would PREFER to avoid using glulam. We don't want a hipped roof but a regular one with as neat an appearance as possible. Snow zone 3. Is there anyone skilled in this area who can give me some guidance?
 
  • Snow-covered house with a long roof and a parked car in front, surrounded by snow. The house has a porch, and trees are in the background.
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Huzzbutt
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Y Yttebyn25 said:
Sitting and planning a new entrance/porch/veranda. The house is 22 meters long and I'm thinking of a veranda from the corner past the second window, i.e., 10-11 meters long and a depth of 2 meters. The roofing will be old-model sheet metal, the same as on the house roof. Can someone please help me with the correct dimensions for the wood for the roof construction and posts? Tried to use byggbeskrivningar.se, which hasn't worked. I'd really prefer to avoid using glulam. We don't want a hip roof but rather a plain one with as neat an appearance as possible. Snow zone 3. Is there someone skilled in this area who can give me some guidance?
Two meters with simple structural wood in Snow Zone 3, I get 170x455 C24 according to the dimensioning table.

Then you should space the posts 1.2 meters apart. If you need to rest any roof beam on a supporting beam, and for some reason can't hit the post, it probably depends a bit on how/where, as it becomes a point load. But the same dimension should suffice, at least if you allow some deflection if it ends up midway between two posts. Best of course is a post under each beam.


Table showing structural timber dimensions (mm) and strength class (C24, C14) with load capacity in snow zones for 1.2m beam spacing.

https://www.traguiden.se/konstrukti...uktionsvirke-i-ett-fack/?previousState=000100
 
klaskarlsson klaskarlsson said:
Two meters with simple construction timber in Snow Zone 3, I get 170x455 C24 according to the sizing table.

A post at every 1.2 doesn't work that well... how can we improve the construction with approximately 1.8 centers?
 
Y Yttebyn25 said:
A post every 1.2 doesn't work well...how do we improve the construction with cc 1.8 approx?
With a strong beam. The linked table shows dimensions at cc1200, i.e., the trusses are placed 1200 mm apart center to center. The page from which the table comes provides a calculation for conversion to cc60, which for some sort of symmetry reason might be appropriate then.
 
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klaskarlsson
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Q
Here you can easily size patio roofs. Input your desired measurements and you will receive suggestions for dimensions.

https://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/dimensionering/altan-med-takkonstruktion/

As an example of what you get, I have attached an insert of how it might look with similar measurements you've given in the thread.

Please note that you should not use that suggestion without verifying it fits your construction/house. The best is to input your own measurements and perform the calculation yourself.

Illustration and specifications of a patio with a roof structure, detailing dimensions, load calculations, and material use in compliance with European standards.
 
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I have tried to set the desired measurements... However, I am not satisfied with, for example, the posts being 90x90. Need something that looks more substantial... but the question is, can you reduce other dimensions to achieve the same strength...
 
Q
It is the smallest dimension specified. It is always fine to go up in dimension. Increasing the dimension on the post does not help the other parts, so you should use the suggested dimensions there regardless.
 
klaskarlsson klaskarlsson said:
Two meters of simple construction timber in Snow Zone 3 gives me 170x455 C24 according to the sizing table.
170x455 can't be right, can it? I suppose you mean 45x170.
 
One guide says 170 and the other guide says 220 on the roof beams. Quite a big difference...I naturally choose the smaller dimension if possible.
 
Q
I recommend that you use the guide for the actual case you want to build. That is, a patio roof connected to the existing roof.

The simpler table does not take into account the significantly increased snow load that comes from snow that lies up against the existing roof.

Also, keep in mind that quality is a factor as well. C14 or C30 affects both dimensions and price.
 
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Y Yttebyn25 said:
I have tried to set the desired measurements... However, I am not satisfied with, for example, the posts being 90x90. I need something that looks more substantial... but the question is whether you can reduce other dimensions to achieve the same strength....
If you want it to look substantial, and perhaps more in line with the rest of the house, and if you have access to it, rough-sawn timber is a suitable choice. The difference in actual dimension between 90x90 and 100x100 is not large, but the difference in visual impact is much greater. Going up to 150x150 increases it even more. However, it can be tricky to get hold of such timber, and many of the major chains have downright exorbitant prices; the price should essentially correspond to the cubic cost.
 
H Huzzbutt said:
If you want it grand, and maybe more in style with the rest of the house and if you have access to it, rough-sawn timber is a suitable choice. The difference in actual dimension between 90x90 and 100x100 is not big but the difference in visual impression is much greater. Going up to 150x150 is even more so. However, it can be tricky to get hold of such timber and many of the big chains have pure rip-off prices, the price should basically correspond to the cubic cost.
H Huzzbutt said:
If you want it grand, and maybe more in style with the rest of the house and if you have access to it, rough-sawn timber is a suitable choice. The difference in actual dimension between 90x90 and 100x100 is not big but the difference in visual impression is much greater. Going up to 150x150 is even more so. However, it can be tricky to get hold of such timber and many of the big chains have pure rip-off prices, the price should basically correspond to the cubic cost.
I have a place where I can buy the timber for the posts. Came up with another thing....does it work just as well to recess the wall plate into the posts as to lay the wall plate on top?

Aaand thought of another thing...best anchoring in the house wall. There will be a lot of forces when the snow comes thundering down from the house roof...
 
Y Yttebyn25 said:
I have a place where I can buy the timber for the posts. Thought of one more thing....is it just as good to recess the wall plate into the posts as to place the wall plate on top?

Oooch thought of another thing...best anchoring in the house wall. There will be a lot of force when the snow comes thundering down from the roof...

The wall plate should be placed upright, not flat. Recessing it into the posts provided they are sturdy enough is good. (The makeshift solution you see on municipal pergolas is posts made of 3 pieces of 45x145 where the middle one is shorter to secure the wall plate).

If you have a good place where you can get hold of strong timber and time and energy, considering the house, I think you should use rough timber in the entire construction. It's difficult to find figures on it, but old timers usually have it in their heads.
 
Y Yttebyn25 said:
I have tried to set the desired measurements... However, I'm not satisfied with, for example, the posts being 90x90. I need something that looks more substantial....but the question is then can you reduce the other dimensions to achieve the same strength....
No
You can increase the dimension or grade of the timber if you need better strength or prefer a more substantial look. 6"x6" doesn't look as flimsy as porch posts and would be my recommendation.
 
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I was thinking of posts about 6x6 inches max... I would have liked to use 45x170 for the roof beams... with a beam/ridge beam of 45x195... but preferably 45x170... maybe it will be too weak with that and cc 1200...
 
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