Will soon start replacing existing windows with new, larger and wider windows. In two or three spots, completely new window openings will be created, where there was previously a wall.
To fit the windows, I will of course have to cut the standing studs and install a glulam beam above. The house is from '58 and the wall currently looks like this from outside to in:
wooden facade
horizontal battens 19mm
fiberboard
70 mm mineral wool
70x45 mm standing studs with nogging
22x95 standing tongue and groove nailed to the nogging
fiberboard
wallpaper
As I see it, I have two options:
1. Support and demolish the entire wall in the opening, then rebuild it with a glulam beam for support. As facade material, it will be exterior gypsum board (the facade is to be replaced next year).
2. Support and nail load-bearing studs (e.g. double 45x95 mm) against the sheathing on the inside - standing directly on the concrete slab. On this, you then install the glulam to later cut an opening in the wall where the window fits. (the wall will be insulated 90 mm inward, so it's not an issue if it builds a bit)
What do you think? Which is easiest, wisest?
To fit the windows, I will of course have to cut the standing studs and install a glulam beam above. The house is from '58 and the wall currently looks like this from outside to in:
wooden facade
horizontal battens 19mm
fiberboard
70 mm mineral wool
70x45 mm standing studs with nogging
22x95 standing tongue and groove nailed to the nogging
fiberboard
wallpaper
As I see it, I have two options:
1. Support and demolish the entire wall in the opening, then rebuild it with a glulam beam for support. As facade material, it will be exterior gypsum board (the facade is to be replaced next year).
2. Support and nail load-bearing studs (e.g. double 45x95 mm) against the sheathing on the inside - standing directly on the concrete slab. On this, you then install the glulam to later cut an opening in the wall where the window fits. (the wall will be insulated 90 mm inward, so it's not an issue if it builds a bit)
What do you think? Which is easiest, wisest?
It sounds like you need to create quite large holes if glue-laminated timber is required above. When I have done similar operations, I have cut out the hole and fitted in studs afterwards, especially in gable walls where there isn't usually much load from above.
If you keep the holes < 2m wide, there isn't typically much downward pressure regardless, but every house is unique.
Otherwise, you can open the wall on the inside, notch out standing 45x70 studs, fit in a glue-laminated beam, and then cut off, that's how the wall will be finished. But maybe that's what you mean in option 2?
If you keep the holes < 2m wide, there isn't typically much downward pressure regardless, but every house is unique.
Otherwise, you can open the wall on the inside, notch out standing 45x70 studs, fit in a glue-laminated beam, and then cut off, that's how the wall will be finished. But maybe that's what you mean in option 2?
In two places, I will replace 150x150 windows with horizontal 200x55, resulting in spans of just over two meters. Considering that I live in Luleå with all that entails in terms of frozen precipitation, I'd rather over-dimension... 
The idea was not to open up the inside and notch in standing 70 studs, but to nail the studs directly to the sheathing on the inside of the wall with a beam on the top and then cut out for the windows. In that case, it might be just as easy to tear down the wall completely and rebuild it with a laminated beam on top.
The neighbors will surely wonder why on earth one does this now in a rainy September/October when it could have been done during the two rain-free summer months Oh well, it is what it is.
In another place, I'll add three windows in a row (w150, h180) where only one window was previously. However, there will be load-bearing studs between each window. It'll be kind of like a 5m long hole in the facade if I choose to tear down the entire wall and rebuild it. A little ventilation is good this time of year
There too I plan to place a laminated beam on the top.
The idea was not to open up the inside and notch in standing 70 studs, but to nail the studs directly to the sheathing on the inside of the wall with a beam on the top and then cut out for the windows. In that case, it might be just as easy to tear down the wall completely and rebuild it with a laminated beam on top.
The neighbors will surely wonder why on earth one does this now in a rainy September/October when it could have been done during the two rain-free summer months
Oh well, it is what it is.In another place, I'll add three windows in a row (w150, h180) where only one window was previously. However, there will be load-bearing studs between each window. It'll be kind of like a 5m long hole in the facade if I choose to tear down the entire wall and rebuild it. A little ventilation is good this time of year
There too I plan to place a laminated beam on the top.
When I have performed these operations, in almost every window in the house, I have found it quickest to open a hole from floor to ceiling and then build new. The condition has then been that both the exterior facade and the interior walls need to be fixed anyway.
It seems like I'm going to do as you suggested, Mathias. It should almost be quicker.
I got hold of a carpenter who will come by tonight to look at the mess. If he has time in the future, he might have to install a couple of them during the day since I only have evenings and weekends to work on it, and it's starting to get a bit chilly outside now...
I got hold of a carpenter who will come by tonight to look at the mess. If he has time in the future, he might have to install a couple of them during the day since I only have evenings and weekends to work on it, and it's starting to get a bit chilly outside now...
Did you prop up the ceiling on the inside beforehand? Did you support it with glulam, construction timber, or maybe even regular wood? Pictures?
On the long sides where I have rafters above, I've reinforced with supports, on the short sides this wasn't done.
The widest section I have is 3 windows that are 80cm wide each. There it is reinforced with regular framing timber, 45x220, double. After ten years, it still hasn't settled, probably thanks to the narrow standing studs between the windows and the sheeting material on the inside of the wall. If I were to do this today, I would undoubtedly use 45mm glulam or kerto beams. It's frustrating with window sills that sag down, so better to overdo it than underdo it. It can also somewhat depend on where the roof joist ends up - if it lies in the middle of a 160cm wide window, it’s probably a good idea to reinforce properly.
Occasionally, there’s plenty of glulam and kerto available on blocket, so the cost to reinforce sturdily doesn't have to be significant. Regular framing timber is really hopeless as a beam - only short pieces stay straight...
Pictures – I don’t know if I have any that are useful...
Here’s the beginning of a window replacement....
The widest section I have is 3 windows that are 80cm wide each. There it is reinforced with regular framing timber, 45x220, double. After ten years, it still hasn't settled, probably thanks to the narrow standing studs between the windows and the sheeting material on the inside of the wall. If I were to do this today, I would undoubtedly use 45mm glulam or kerto beams. It's frustrating with window sills that sag down, so better to overdo it than underdo it. It can also somewhat depend on where the roof joist ends up - if it lies in the middle of a 160cm wide window, it’s probably a good idea to reinforce properly.
Occasionally, there’s plenty of glulam and kerto available on blocket, so the cost to reinforce sturdily doesn't have to be significant. Regular framing timber is really hopeless as a beam - only short pieces stay straight...
Pictures – I don’t know if I have any that are useful...
Here’s the beginning of a window replacement....
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