I don't think the slope will be a major issue in the drawing, but the only thing that strikes me is that the underbeam looks weak. In my mind, it should be quite sturdy if you consider snow accumulating on the roof. It now feels more like the assumption is that everything will immediately slide off, and the truss only needs to support itself and the roof. Maybe even borderline. But I must say I'm not a structural engineer, and you can't see all the measurements fully in the drawing either.
yes, the idea is an H beam at the front by the gate, also supported by steel columns on either side
Hmm, not sure if I've misunderstood something now since I got such a different number... BUT
If you initially thought that the trusses would be placed as in your existing house (same direction); but it can't be too high so that the windows upstairs aren't covered, could it be like this with the slope:
Yes, exactly, the roof should have the same direction as the existing house. If you imagine standing in front of the house, the dimensions are 6.5m wide and 10m deep.
yes, the idea is an H beam at the front by the gate, which is also supported by steel columns on each side
The support at the ends is one thing, but a truss of 10m that has to carry itself plus the roof and possibly snow should be quite robust. The one in the picture doesn't look that remarkable.
An alternative to a 10m truss is to place roof beams rotated in the slope of the roof from the long side to the house. 6.5m is relatively long, so the beams will be placed quite close together. On the beams, you then lay "ventilation beams" parallel to the roof slope and on these, you lay tongue-and-groove cladding. This likely requires more material but provides the greatest free height inside the garage and the thinnest roof construction. The beams will bend in their weak direction when rotated, but this is not a significant problem to solve. Where in the country is the garage located?
An alternative to a 10m truss is to lay roof joists rotated in the roof's slope from the long side to the house. 6.5m is relatively long, so it will be quite close between the joists. On the joists, you then lay "ventilation joists" parallel to the roof slope and on these, rough sawn boards. Likely more material use but provides the most clear height inside the garage and the thinnest roof construction. The joists will bend in their weak direction when they are rotated, but this is no problem to solve. Where in the country is the garage located?
Yes exactly, the roof should have the same direction as the existing house. If you imagine standing in front of the house, the dimensions would be 6.5m wide and 10m deep.
Ah okay! Yes, then I get that (with the same figures on finished floor height +0.2 and roof height 2.10) to a 15 degree slope
How wide, long, height to ridge and what roof pitch does the existing house have? If possible, considering the garage roof pitch, is the idea sheet metal or roof tiles?
The measurement from the concrete slab and window, assuming it is assumed that the slab is a few cm above ground level?
How wide, long, height to the ridge, and what is the roof pitch of the existing house? If possible, considering the garage roof pitch, is the idea sheet metal or roof tiles?
The measurement from the concrete slab to the window, I assume it is assumed that the slab is a few cm above ground level?
6.5 wide and 10 long. Height from finished slab to metal sheet to window is about 3670mm. Roof covering does not matter, sheet metal is a bit more expensive I assume, so preferably tiles as it should match the existing style. When we designed without a 1-meter "ditch," we got a very low roof pitch/height. But I thought there might be some smart solution or compromise. That's correct, as we have a lot of rock, I have only managed to go down 30cm at most in some places. So then I choose to raise the slab so it ends up at the same height as the house's.
That the mountain is so high was a bit unfortunate, otherwise, you would have gained a few dm if you could place the slab just above ground level and avoid a ramp up into the garage. How high a door were you considering?
Has your truss supplier received good measurements to work from when requesting a quote?
And the requirement for at least 14°?
For example, did the truss supplier have these measurements that I can't derive from what you've shared? View attachment 468394
The truss you have at the top of the thread appears to have the measurements on the right side to the bottom of the top chord at the apex. So the slope isn't correct.
I would say it should be possible to solve your problem with a similar truss to the one you have been offered. However, they will need to be placed closely together and perhaps be double near the wall. If you need a truss with a slope of at least 14°, then it's the wall height that you will have to compromise on. Otherwise, it will be what it will be due to the circumstances.
Did your truss supplier receive good measurements to work with for the quote inquiry?
And the request for at least 14°?
For example, did the truss supplier have these dimensions that I can't deduce from what you've shared?
[media]
The truss you have at the top of the thread seems to have the dimensions on the right side to the bottom edge of the top chord at the ridge. So the slope is incorrect.
I would say that it should be possible to solve your problem with a truss similar to the one you've been offered. However, they will need to be placed closely together and maybe be double near the wall. If you need a truss with a slope of at least 14°, then it's the wall height you'll have to compromise on. Otherwise, it will be what it will be due to the circumstances.
The house is 8.8m wide from that angle, the extension will continue 1.2m further on the back (right side in the picture).
Between the windows 141cm.
Width of window external dimension frame 134cm.
From facade to window frame 325cm.
I think as you said, I'll probably have to compromise on the interior ceiling height. I've also started looking into metal roofing now, and it might look nice with that too.
Are you planning any interior walls for a storage room or similar? If so, could this be used in some way? Could a pillar somewhere in the garage be an alternative otherwise? Will you have one or two doors?
With a ridge beam, the roof joists need to be at least 45x220s300 C24 and the ridge beam laminated timber 140x495, a substantial piece. This would probably be more suitable in steel instead. If instead, two "ridge beams" are placed, each extended a piece from the ridge, the beam height can be reduced to 360mm, and the roof joists can be spaced further apart. If there were a transverse interior wall, making it load-bearing would allow for skipping one of the beams.
