Built a small staircase last autumn for a deck, nothing spectacular, just something fixed in a day, but it looked very nice and good when it was finished. The decking (pressure-treated) was relatively fresh and wet, so I expected it to shrink a bit like the rest of the deck did, but I thought the staircase looked pretty bad today when I saw it. It has warped and formed gaps of several centimeters both widthwise and lengthwise, and the corners that were neat and fit perfectly have now become very unsightly, as seen in the pictures.

Is it expected to look like this? Can anything be done to prevent this in the future?
 
  • Corner of a wooden deck with noticeable gaps between planks on a gravel surface, showing signs of shrinkage and warping.
  • Wooden outdoor step with noticeable gaps in the boards, showing misaligned corners and a gravel surface surrounding it.
apotekarnes
Sharp corners in damp timber turn out like that 100 times out of 100. You can loosen, re-cut (mitre) and knock them back together again. I tend to cut (mitre) a little off from the start so there’s a gap on the outer edge. When it dries, I give the boards a tap and with a bit of luck, it fits perfectly. I’ve done this with home-planed moldings that I knew would shrink a bit.
 
You should not miter outdoors. If you "must" do it anyway, you should always screw the miter.
 
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ricebridge
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apotekarnes
Do you mean screwing horizontally in the outer corners? It prevents the boards from lifting/warping differently, but there will still be gaps on the inside of the miter if the wood was damp when cut.
 
That's probably something you have to expect.
I have exactly the same problem at home. Depending on the season, it either gaps a lot or looks great. Below is a picture from today. It just rained overnight, so today it looks "half-decent" :)
Wet wooden deck with visible gaps after rain, featuring a watering can, a brush, and outdoor furniture. Mitered corner joins the deck boards.
In a couple of years, you won't see the gaps at all. So don't think too much about it. The alternative is to skip the mitering. But personally, I like the mitering better than a lot of end grain.
 
And when you screw into end grain, you should use special screws for it or pre-drill, otherwise it will split.
 
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Bazily2k
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There are already gaps between each board, so a few more gaps here and there don't make much difference. After a while, it's not something you think about.
 
apotekarnes apotekarnes said:
Do you mean screwing horizontally in the outer corners? It counteracts the boards warping differently, but there will still be gaps on the inside of the miter if the wood was wet at cutting.
Yep, the outer corners. One has to live with the inner corners. That's why you shouldn't miter outdoors. A classic mistake is mitering bargeboards at the gable peak.
 
apotekarnes
Kashmirsocialist Kashmirsocialist said:
Yep, the outer corners. You have to live with the inner corners. That's why you shouldn't miter outdoors. A classic misstep is mitering bargeboards at the gable apex.
All the bargeboards on my property are mitered and have virtually no gaps. Dry wood, "over-miter" a few mm and tap together after a few weeks or make sure to do everything in the spring. Personally, I think "overlapping" laid bargeboards are ugly, but I understand the point.
 
apotekarnes apotekarnes said:
All the bargeboards on my property are mitered and have practically no gaps. Dry timber, "miss-miter" a few millimeters and knock together after a few weeks or make sure to do everything in the spring. Personally, I think "overlapping" bargeboards are ugly, but I understand the point.
Well, taste is like a bottom (or like a split ass). I've always thought that mitered bargeboards look amateurish. I never trust that the timber is dry enough, and it tends to move anyway. Plus, I don't want to climb ladders unnecessarily and make adjustments.
 
What is recommended instead of corners on a deck staircase? Let the boards run all the way out?
 
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